# API Tap Water Filter



## goawayou (May 6, 2009)

Hi, i just purchased the API Tap Water Filter to help me totally clean out my tap water because I have high phosphate issues.
However, after following the instructions to apply the supplied electro-right and PH adjuster and the proper amounts… I still get a PH that way off the scale too low. Before filtering the water, I had perfect 7.0 PH water.
I know that the filter will take out the sediments from the water necessary to get an accurate reading for PH… but how long does it take for the added adjusters to work? Or do I need to add more than what the bottles say? 

Thanx for the help!


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## Obsidian (May 20, 2007)

Chemicals to adjust for Ph can be difficult to use. They temporarily change the buffering capacity of the water but then later the Ph can change quickly causing a Ph swing. This swing is worse to fish than a low or high Ph. 

What is "off the charts low?"

You should not need to add more than the amounts indicated as you want to be careful about what you add/how you mess with your water. Give it time.


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

The filter is a deionizer. That takes all ions out of the water. If you use it straight, the fish will die. The electro right has got to be a salt package, to add back in some of what was removed. But if the pH is falling off, either you don't have enough "buffering capacity" yet or you miscalculated the pH adjuster. Don't use this water until you get it under control. I suggest you get either a TDS pen ($20 in the water filter section) or a gH/dH/kH test kit. You won't be able to control pH until you know the amount of ions in your water. 

How are the phosphates causing problems for you?


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## goawayou (May 6, 2009)

to filter the water, i use two 5 gallon water jugs. once the water is full in both i have 10 gallons of filtered water. the instructions for the Electro-Right and PH adjuster say, "For community aquarium water with a ph of 7.0 and a GH of 60ppm first as 4 teaspoonsful of electroright, then 2 teaspoonsful of ph adjuster for every 10 US gallons of deionized water."

i follow that exactly. but have not added it in my tank yet...because of this issue.
how far low is my ph afterwards? i use the API ph water testing kit. the vile is almost orange-yellow, and the scale at goes from yellow (6.0) to blue (7.2).
i'm assuming the water should be 7.0...but because of the deionizing...it takes out the minerals needed to register the proper PH level?
can i add aquarium salt to it to add back some buffering capacity?
i have gh and kh test kits. gh is about 3* (50ppm) and kh is about 1* (10ish ppm)after running through filter.

how are the phosphates causing problems for me?
i have a phosphate test kit also. that number is off the charts in the WAY TOO HIGH level. from the brownish color (0ppm) or dark blue (10ppm)...and it's supposed to take 3 minutes to get to color... my kit turns the dark blue instantly. before i knew about phosphate problems...my tank would always turn foggy green. doing water changes is never enough....however i guess my pleco enjoys it? but my cichlids probably do not.

to add to the problem, i also use the filter for my hard water. it's also super high. my tap water has a GH of 13* (about 275ppm).


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

I would use cichlid salt and cichlid buffer (Kent or Seachem). Or use a recipe like this one here: http://cichlid-forum.com/articles/buffer_recipe.php. Bound to be cheaper than electro-right. Aquarium salt is better than nothing but marine and epsom salt are a better match for most natural freshwater.


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## goawayou (May 6, 2009)

OK... so i tried the baking soda addition. i had to add about 3 tablespoons to get a ph of 7. once i had my PH...i decided to check the rest of the levels. GH under 50ppm, Phosphates and ammonia obvious ok. but now my KH is WAAY high, and off the scale... most likely over 400ppm. i don't know...the API test has you adding drops until the color turns from blue to yellow. let's just say, there's no sign of yellow.

again, before this addition my kh was like 10ppm.
(and reminder, all these water changes are currently being on in 5 gallon water jugs!)

can i get away with this, if all my other levels are ok?


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

kH is carbonate hardness. baking soda is Sodium Bicarbonate. So its a great way to get kH up and stabilize pH. High kH sometimes give you white scale on filters and is bad for 'blackwater' fish. What do you have in the tank? Most livebearers won't mind. But when you change water chemistry, add new water slowly.


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## goawayou (May 6, 2009)

as best as i can describe them...
30 gallon tank.
one black pleco (sucker fish i call them) (about 4 inches long).
one orange american parot cichlid (about 5 inches long)
one blue/black vertically stripped african cichlid (about 3.5 inches long).

i've had them all together for about 8 months now.
yes, the american chases the african around...a ot, but i never had a problem with torn fins or damage on either of them. they both have their own dug out holes, and places to hide that they claimed.

i also tried real plants for a long time...but then all of a sudden about a month ago, my tank got all foggy and green. so i started looking into other issues that might cause this, and learned about phosphates in my tank water. well, w/ the amount of phosphates in my tap water already, i guess that'd explain why the plants were doing so well?
anyways, i since took the plants out, and tried lots of water changes, but once i learned about the phosphate level in my tap water i thought i'd try this filter because i tried things like phoszorb but i've gone through 5 pillows...and i realized it's just a waste of my money for the amount of phosphate that's been in my tap water. 

it always seems when i solve one issue, i come up with another.
i've never been able to maintain ph...
but i guess if i have a high KH, i shouldn't have that issue any longer?

thank you so much for all of this help!
i'm glad i found a good forum to come back to!


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