# Sticky  Supplies For Breeding Bettas



## Fishy friend2

The Spawning Tank










The Spawning Tank is a very important part of breeding. This picture includes the vital parts of a spawning tank.


 Many Plants.
floating or non substrate rooted live plants should suffice. Since there shouldn't be any gravel or substrate in the breeding tank, no rooted plants should be used, Silk plants would also do good. I recommend live plants though. Your tank needs to be heavily planted, so the female feels secure and can escape for a few seconds away from the male.

Caves, Or Decorations. 
this provides even more cover and an area for both the female and the male to retreat to. both the male and female get injured during this process. The female will highly appreciate a cave, or other decoration to retreat to, this reduces stress in my opinion and experience

1 - 20 Gallon Spawning Tank. 
The Spawning tank can be any size ranging from 1 - 20 gallons, the tank size can also vary depending on the way you breed. Usually the "Thai" way is used with smaller tanks, while the "Hobbyist Method" usually consists of larger tanks half filled or only filled to a certain amount. usually males don't spawn in higher tanks. hence why the water level is lower. If you choose the hobbyist method which is what we are discussing here, 5-10 gallon + is best

A Sponge Filter (Optional). 
A Filter is optional. I usually choose to use a filter though when spawning as it reduces the need for water changes. I would preferably use a Sponge Filter. I try to cause Minimal stress, and changing the water to the fish's needs will cause a bit of stress. with constantly introducing and removing water. The filter helps greatly with this issue. Remember. only a cycled filter will help with this issue

No Substrate. 
Substrate can be used in a spawning tank but it makes it very hard for the Male Betta to pick up the eggs and place them into the Bubble Nest. Even though the substrate might be "pretty" it makes spawning completely harder. Please don't use any sort of substrate. gravel or sand, it isn't needed and it just makes it harder for them to spawn

A Chimney. 
What's called a chimney is primarily needed to spawn. It lets the male and female see each other with out hurting or injuring each other. it also helps to identify if the female is ready for breeding, she'll show vertical breeding stripes. I personally use a 1 - 2 liter soda bottle cut at the bottom and, a place the female in it. My example is shown in the picture at the top.

An Anchor For The Nest. 
This might be optional to other but to me its an absolute need. My Male Splendens will not make a bubblenest unless there is an anchor such as a half cut cup, a large leaf, or any other close alternative. I personally Use a half cut Styrofoam cup, the anchor also serves another purpose. to minimize the amount of flow where he builds his bubble nest.

Source Of Heat - 
all bettas need a source of heat with spawning requiring a bit higher than normal. for spawning to occur the temperature should be maintained around 82-85. Use heaters or heat the room to maintain temperatures. Make sure they dont constantly fluctuate 

Male And Female Betta

 A Quality Pair. 
This is The most important part about breeding Bettas. You always want a quality pair that is worth breeding. breeding deformed Bettas could result in even more deformities while breeding Veil Tails would result in difficulties to find homes for and a minimal profit.

 Live Or Frozen Foods. 
Live or frozen foods are needed for conditioning the pair. Brine Shrimp, Black Worms, Blood worms, Mosquito Larvae, and others can be used

Growout Tank, and Fry Needs

A Minimum Of 10-20 Gallon Tank 
A minimum of a 10 - 20 gallon would be needed to maintain a growout tank depending on the size of the spawn. for smaller spawns a 10 gallon can be used

Source Of Heat 
all bettas need a source of heat with fry requiring a bit higher than normal. For best and optimal growth within the fry, temperatures around 85-88 should be maintained. Use heaters or heat the room to maintain temperatures. Make sure they dont constantly fluctuate.

 Sponge Filter. 
While This is arguable, in My Personal Opinion a cycled filter with minimal flow is needed to help clean the water along with adding dissolved oxygen into the water for the fry. Fry grow faster and are healthier with cleaner water. Always make sure the tank is cycled first.

Plants And Cover (Optional). 
This is optional, plants and cover arent needed in any way. some breeders believe the growth is faster and the fry are healthier with many live plants in the tank. select the proper plants if you choose to add them, some plants cant withstand such high temperatures

Live Foods 
Live foods are needed for fry, Some good foods are Baby Brine Shrimp, Microwoms, Banana Worms, Walter Worms, and infusoria. these are all nutritional and promote great growth within the betta. once they get older frozen foods can be fed

100+ Jars 
Many, Many jars or small tanks are needed for breeding as aggressive males need to be seperated from the growout tank because they will most likely become a problem. the time spawn in which they gain aggression can differ so there really isnt any specific time when they get aggression if you were gonna wait for a couple of months until you get jars. Quart Jars are perfect for separating them.


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## WildForFish

Excellent Post!

Job well done once again


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## lohachata

i stickied this thread because it contains the best and most concise information for the preparation of breeding bettas....

nice job FF2..


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## Fishy friend2

Thank you!


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## iheartfish:)

I am constantly amazed by the posts you make. Let's just sticky everything he posts by default  Great, great, great post. Wonderful. I nominate you as MVP lol


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## lohachata

as i see it.....i doubt that all of ff2's posts are out of his own experience ; but rather a combination of his experience and information and photographs gleaned from the internet....formatted in a manner that is informative and easy to understand....it is clear and concise...makes for an excellent sticky thread where folks can quickly access it and get good info to answer their question..


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## Fishy friend2

Lohachata is right, most of what I wright is from excessive research. And experience to back those facts up


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## lohachata

don't make me correct your spelling pal.....lol...
right = right/left....right wrong..
write = written word....the act of writing...
WRIGHT = nada....zero...zilch...zip...except orville and wilbur or mill as in millwright... i think....


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## Chard56

How about a little more explaination on the spawning method. Thai way and Hobbyist method and 1-20 gallons is very vaugue and not helpful at all to beginners. Again as in the raising of fry post I highly disagree with keeping fry at 84 to 88 degrees.


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## Betta man

I guess on my current spawn, I'll try raising the fry at 80 degrees. How long does it take them to mature that way? I think nataliey on bff got sexually mature fry in 10 weeks.


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## Chard56

I have two and a half month old Black Orchid Crowntails that I'll be jarring the next few days. On the other hand, a Purple Delta spawn at 6 months is just now starting to develop longer finnage on the males. I try to keep my fishroom at 78 to 80 at all times. Different strains develop at different ages but temperatures lower than 75 will take much longer to growout. Higher temperatures equals shorter lives but lower than 75 will result in lethargy and sickness as well as a shorter life span because of illness.


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