# Refugium



## gdwb10101 (Apr 14, 2006)

I have wanted to build a refugium for my 55g, with a spare 10g tank. I can build baffles and make it pretty nice, but im afraid of several things. Primarily that when the power shuts off and comes back on, which it does frequently since i live in miami, it will flood my room. Secondly, is a 10g sufficient for my 55g? Lastly, my main tank is tempered so i can't drill it and i don't really want to spend alot on an overflow box. Are there any alternatives which are cost friendly? 

BTW i have thought about a hot or hit refugium, but due to my limited space, it is too hard. I have room under the main tank, but not much wall space on the sides.


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## violet (Mar 17, 2006)

There may be other ways but I only know of drilled tanks and overflow boxes. I'm not into commitment so I like CS overflows.

The best illustration I have seen as to how spillage is avoided is here: http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html

I have a 55G over another 55G with the pump inline not submerged and it's not a very traditional use but the priniciples are the same.

Personally, I don't think a 10G is worth it. As soon as you finished it you would begin to have refugium envy.


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## TheOldSalt (Jan 28, 2005)

A ten is not a good fuge. By the time you installed the baffles there wouldn't be enough room left for the important stuff.
A 20-long is a much better choice.

You'll have to build it in such a way that it simply stops when the power is off, and restarts on it's own when the power returns. There is simply no other way, so don't even try.


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## gdwb10101 (Apr 14, 2006)

I understand the basics of a fuge. What i dont understand is why when the power cuts off and the siphon keeps draining, why doesn't the fuge overflow. Then when the power comes back on, what keeps the siphon from not breaking when the water level in the main tank lowers? If i can understand the concept, i think i can convince my father that it is safe to use one in my room.


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

You must have enough room in your sump/fuge to accomidate water until the main tank drops below the overflow. Once the water level drops below that, no more water will drain. I am in the same boat as you right now so I decided to use a 10 gallon wil enough room for a heater and my skimmer. Not worried about the refugium right now. I will put one on the back of the tank when time and money permits it.


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## Reefneck (Oct 15, 2005)

TheOldSalt said:


> A ten is not a good fuge. By the time you installed the baffles there wouldn't be enough room left for the important stuff.
> A 20-long is a much better choice.


I disagree with the first part of this sentance. I built a 10G fuge for my wifes 55G and it has worked great for many months. A 20 Long is much better for this of course but if done right, A 10G can work fine.


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## violet (Mar 17, 2006)

gdwb10101 said:


> What i dont understand is why when the power cuts off and the siphon keeps draining, why doesn't the fuge overflow. Then when the power comes back on, what keeps the siphon from not breaking when the water level in the main tank lowers?


The proper name for an overflow is *Continuous Siphon Overflow*. There are baffles which maintain an inverted *U* over the rim of the tank, power or not.

The link I gave you is the BEST illustration I have ever seen as to how it works:

http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html

Pay attention to the differences of when the red and green lights change.

Because my two tanks have the same dimensions, water level in the sump almost doesn't change. Not even a half inch.

One of the reasons I don't think a 10G issuch a great choice is that a lot of room must be left for the extra water when/if the power goes out, although some depends on the plumbing you use.

OldSalts's suggestion of a 20G long has a great ratio of top surface area to volume. Long and wide disperses the voume over a greater surface.


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## harif87 (Jun 5, 2006)

Ive been worrying about that same problem, which is why i got an overflow box. I just got my CPR overflow and it has screws that let you adjust the water level, so if your afraid that your 10 gallon wont hold too much then set it that just the bare bare surface of the water leaks into the overflow....i mean its pretty simple, the lower the overflow intake is the bigger your sump has to be, the higher it is the smaller the sump your going to need....

Also if you want a cost freindly way for the overflow then try a DIY project. Its a prettty simple project... post a thread in the DIY section asking how and ill type it up for you if you want.


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## violet (Mar 17, 2006)

harif87 said:


> ... it has screws that let you adjust the water level, so if your afraid that your 10 gallon wont hold too much then set it that just the bare bare surface of the water leaks into the overflow....i mean its pretty simple, the lower the overflow intake is the bigger your sump has to be, the higher it is the smaller the sump your going to need...


Not really. The water level in the upper tank will always be just barely above the lip of the overflow. The screws adjust the water level which will be maintained in the upper tank. (do you want it right at the rim or a little further below) The amount of water which will drain down into the sump/fuge depends on the surface area of the upper tank and the amount of water in the plumbing which connects the two tanks. Especially the diameter and length of the tubing/pipe which leads back up to the upper tank.


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## harif87 (Jun 5, 2006)

violet said:


> Not really. The water level in the upper tank will always be just barely above the lip of the overflow. The screws adjust the water level which will be maintained in the upper tank. (do you want it right at the rim or a little further below) The amount of water which will drain down into the sump/fuge depends on the surface area of the upper tank and the amount of water in the plumbing which connects the two tanks. Especially the diameter and length of the tubing/pipe which leads back up to the upper tank.


Ahhhhhh your right! ......And i thought it was so simple....Back to the drawing board for me! 

Im scared as hell of overflowing being that i have wooden floors in my house and that once summer hits a black out is almost guaranteed......i got a 15 gal fuge on the 55 im setting up, i gotta figure how much to leave empty for that "layer" of water that will be siphoned down.


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## violet (Mar 17, 2006)

I usually take a *wonder what happens if...* approach but I can see you concern with HW floors. Set it up and getting it running with a ton of towels underneath. Take as much water of of the fuge as you can and have it still keep running properly. Cut all power and see how much water drains down. That should tell you the max which will drain. With the power all still OFF, fill up the fuge to a little less than full. Put the power back on, it should restart the fuge should have the level drop. That should be the SAFE normal operating level. Cut the power, the water should drain down and be very close to the level you filled it to before. Make marks on the outside for the high and low levels and turn it on and off a few times to confirm.

The smaller the sump or fuge is compared to the upper tank, the more of an issue it it.


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## harif87 (Jun 5, 2006)

Gotya. I was thinking more along the lines of calculating how many gallons that layer just above the overflow is and seeing how that will reflect on the water in the sump in an outage. I thought of that first since i do nothing in work except research for my tanks lol. But ill definately try what you explained.

Also i was at home depot today to get some PVC pipes and i came across a vaulve.....i bought it and installed it on the overflow pipeline so in the event of an uncontrolled siphon action ill just switch the vaulve off.


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## harif87 (Jun 5, 2006)

What i realized is that the siphoning happens from the pump back into the sump not from the overflow box!! Anyways i drilled 2 holes just below the water level to break the siphon....just thought i would let you guys know...


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