# Filter Suggestion for 10/75g tanks



## BL1 (Jan 21, 2010)

Hey everyone, I'll try to make this brief ....

I have a cycled 10g tank that I'm planning on converting to a planted tank and SLIGHTLY over stocking with neon or cardinal tetras (and by over stock I mean if I get neons I may get 12). Right now I'm running the TopFin 10, that came with the tank. I'm thinking of upgrading it to either the AquaClear 20 or 30, or the Marineland 100/150. Which would be the best choice for a 10g tank, and would it be totally necessary to be filtering 150 gal./hr. in a 10g tank?

And second, on my 75g tank, I'm running a Marineland Penguin 70 (I know it's under-powered for this size tank) so my first question here is, should I get a second filter, or just get a bigger filter to replace my current one? And What ever, your answer to that is, which one should I get, right now I'm looking at either getting the AC70, or replacing my current one with the AC110.

All of your help would be greatly appreciated as I'm only trying to make my fish's lives as enjoyable/comfortable as possible.
Thanks,
Brian


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## aspects (Feb 1, 2009)

AquaClear filters are superior in every single way. When it comes to chosing between the two, its no contest. 

For the 10g I'd suggest going with a ZooMed 501 canister. (yes, the one that says its for turtle tanks). This is what most of the nano planters usually go with. Its a great filter for the tank, and you don't have to worry about gassing off Co2 (if you eventually end up doing a DIY Co2 set up)

For the 75, if consider doing a wet/dry sump. You can make one yourself pretty cheap. 
If you're not ready to dive into the world of wet/dry filters, definitely go with the AC110. Or 2


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## llamas (Jun 29, 2009)

I would also like to add that it would most likely be better to add a filter rather than to replace it. Two filters are always better than one! If one fails, you have a backup running. Also, if while cleaning you somehow make a mistake and accidentally kill off some bacteria, your second filter will help keep the tank from going into a mini-cycle.


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## lennyboy222 (Jan 14, 2010)

There is no such thing as over filtration, there is such thing as under filtration. I usually get a filter double the size of my aquarium. One of the best filter I like is marineland the penguin bio-wheel filter. It is a great bio-filter because the water is drawn up by a pump, pass through mechanical and chemical filtration. Then, water spins goes through the bio-wheel where the healthy colony of bacteria grows on making it an effective bio-filter keeps ammonia and nitrite 0.


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## aspects (Feb 1, 2009)

the bio-wheel is purely visual/


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## llamas (Jun 29, 2009)

aspects said:


> the bio-wheel is purely visual/


I have read the same many times before! Bacteria will grown on any surface! A biowheel does nothing 'extra'; it just proveds more surface area for bacteria to grow. Basically the biowheel is good for those who change out their filter cartridges. When you throw away the cartridge, you ar throwing away the bacteria. The biowheel stays there to keep some bacteria in the filter.

However, with the Aquaclears, you dont even need a biowheel! The aquaclear filters do not use filter cartridges. They use a foam insert, a bag of carbon (or another foam insert) and some ceramic rings on top. It is almost like an HOB canister filter! Since you never replace the foam inserts or the ceramic rings, unless they are falling apart, plenty of bacteria will grow there and flourish!

Another thing worth mentioning is that I got a filter with a biowheel once. That thing was so loud!!!! Im not sure about the penquin filters, but with the aquaclear, the filtration is VERY quiet (especially when running without a top).

So, I HIGHLY recommend the aquaclea over any other HOB filter! Its does a superb job. Plus, not having to ever buy cartridges saves A LOT of money in the long run!


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## aspects (Feb 1, 2009)

well, the concept of the bio-fail is nice. its supposed to provide a sort of "wet/dry" action. however, *when* the wheel stops spinning (and it will) you lose whatever bacteria is not submerged. 
the wheels rely on a plastic rail (that gets gunked up) to hold the wheel, a spraybar (infamous for getting clogged), and the waterlevel of your tank (which drops with evaporation) for the wheel to spin depending on the model you have. 
also, the material the wheel is made out of, really does not provide as much surface area as it claims. and the amount it does have, is easily reduced by clogging, or algae growth on the wheel (if its exposed to light).

the "wet/dry" HOB is a nice idea, but it was just designed all wrong. and quite frankly, besides a couple of eheim models, most canisters dont offer any sort of wet/dry filtration, and they are used the world around. 

if you want wet/dry filtration... build a wet/dry. its not hard to build a DIY version, and theyre pretty inexpensive. all you really pay for is the return pump. 
but if you want a pre-fab filter, i suggest the AC110 over most canisters (unless you dont have room for a HOB). the AC110 offers all the benefits of a canister filter in an easy to use, easy to clean HOB body. on top of that it uses less electricity, and offers a higher flow rate (for better mechanical filtration) than most comparable canister filters.


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## BL1 (Jan 21, 2010)

Thanks for all the replies. I think I've decided to go with the AC30 for the 10g tank. As of right now, I don't think I'm ready to jump up to a wet/dry system just yet, so I think I'm going to run the AC110 + my current Marineland 70 on the 75g tank. I may not run two filters on that tank forever but, at least until I can get some bacteria into the new filter.

Thanks again!
Brian


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## aspects (Feb 1, 2009)

BL1 said:


> Thanks for all the replies. I think I've decided to go with the AC30 for the 10g tank. As of right now, I don't think I'm ready to jump up to a wet/dry system just yet, so I think I'm going to run the AC110 + my current Marineland 70 on the 75g tank. I may not run two filters on that tank forever but, at least until I can get some bacteria into the new filter.
> 
> Thanks again!
> Brian



Definitely run both. There's no such thing as too much filtration.


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## BL1 (Jan 21, 2010)

So, I picked up my AC110 today and set it up, and it's running great. I wanted to know though, the manual said that you need to replace the carbon, sponge, and rings every 2-4 weeks. I know that's not the case, because you'd be getting rid of all that bacteria. What's the proper way to take care of that filter?


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## aspects (Feb 1, 2009)

Remove the carbon. You don't need it in your filter at all. You can either save of for a time you might need it (when removing meds from your tank) or just throw it away all together. I just throw them away personally. 

The bio max never needs to be replaced. 

The sponge should be squeezed out in tank water, and only be replaced when they start clogging fast or deteriorating. The sponges in my AC110s usually last me 4-5years befere needing replacement.


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## aspects (Feb 1, 2009)

Remove the carbon. You don't need it in your filter at all. You can either save of for a time you might need it (when removing meds from your tank) or just throw it away all together. I just throw them away personally. 

The bio max never needs to be replaced. 

The sponge should be squeezed out in tank water, and only be replaced when they start clogging fast or deteriorating. The sponges in my AC110s usually last me 4-5years befere needing replacement.


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## BL1 (Jan 21, 2010)

Well, the carbon is already in there so I will probably just leave it for now. I am very very happy with the filter so far, my water has never been clearer. Another week or two and I figure it'll be like glass. Now I just have to fix my nitrite problem and I'll be golden. Thanks again!


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## llamas (Jun 29, 2009)

The carbon will help with removing any discoloration in the tank. However, i find it too expensive to use all the time. Since you have it in there, just keep it there. However, in about 2 weeks it would be a good idea to remove it. When carbon begins to run out (stop working) it may start to leach out phosphorous in the tank and other impurities.

Just like Aspects said, just rinse the sponge in a bucket of tank water and you are good to go! They last forever!!!!


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## llamas (Jun 29, 2009)

I know you did not address this issue, but I have some advice for your Aquaclear.

If you ever find that the aquaclear is kind of noisy, there are two quick, simple things you can do!

1. Take the top off! It's as simple as that. I found it amazing how much quieter my aquaclear runs without the top. I keep it off all the time

2. The motor/impeller can sometimes make a lot of noise when you first install the filter. You will find though that as the filter 'matures' and the impeller gains a good coat of 'slime', it will run much quieter. One simple way to speed this up is to take the filter and empty it. Then, remove the motor/impeller. Remove the impeller from the impeller well and, with a cotton swap, apply a light coat of any sort of dechlorinator or product that may be used to help a fish's slime coat. By lightly applying the dechlorinator or chemical on the impeller, the impeller well and the shaft, it will help get that 'slime coat' going. This too made my filter mcuh quieter.


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## aspects (Feb 1, 2009)

i did not address it, because it has never been an issue. the only time i have ever had an aquaclear filter make "noise", was due to user error on my part. if you set it up wrong, run it dry, or prime it wrong, you may run into a problem.
if you attempt to run the filter using a sand or other fine substrate (ADA soil, flourite, etc) without taking the proper precautions, you may run into a problem.

however, if set up and operated properly, it is very unlikey that you will have any problems with noise. i have had many AC filters over the years, and i have not had a single one that wasnt silent. i was recently told by someone (however unreliable the source might be) that there has been an issue with a recent batch that was having noise problems. though i just purchased 3 more small AC filters, and after testing them, i have not noticed said problem.

if there is a problem with your *new* ac filter, you can return it for one without any manufacturer defect. however, if its fine when you set it up, and later theres an issue, chalk it up to user error and consider it a learning experience.


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

When the sponge floats, clean it. My worst experience with an aquaclear had to do with a missing leveling foot. If the filter gets tilted back, water can flow over the back of the filter, not good. Any filter can make a mess if it gets really and thoroughly clogged, but the aquaclear, IMO, are more prone to do so silently. Keep up with the sponge squeezing and make sure the filter is level (sometimes it doesn't want to sit flat on tanks with wide rims) and you will be fine.


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