# ugly algae



## Gary (Aug 17, 2005)

Hi,
I inherited a 55 gallon tank in June that was well established. I transferred about 35 of the original gallons when I took the tank and kept the original filters - it is running with both an Aquaclear 300 and also an Aquaclear 200 and has an underground filter system with 2 powerheads. It is a community tank with 4 medium sized angel fish, mixed tetras, a rainbow shark, several cories and platies. I have been doing regular water changes - every 2-3 weeks I change about 20 gallons with gravel vac. Recently (past 2-3 weeks) I have had lots of brown algae forming on the plastic decorations, gravel, and tank. I did another change of 20 gallons because I had heard that algae could have to do with high nitrates and thought the water change would help, but it did not. Any other suggestions to get rid of this ugly algae?
Thanks,
Gary


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## Puffer Pita (Jun 16, 2006)

Those are brown diatoms, normal in newer tanks. They will go away on their own. Just rub them with your fingers or a clean aquarium-use only sponge before doing water changes.

I know you didn't ask, but you should be doing water changes weekly, IMO. That's a good size bioload and most likely needs water changes more often to keep the water parameters in line.


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## Guest (Oct 13, 2006)

I agree with Boxermom. I'd change about 50% weekly to keep everything in check. Undergravel filters can build up nasties underneath and elevate the nitrates, so I'd do weekly changes to help keep those in check.

How often do you feed? Also, how many watts of light are over the tank? Sometimes brown algae can be caused by too low of light. But it is very common in new tanks.


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## Gary (Aug 17, 2005)

I feed usually twice daily - not sure how much wattage - one bulb that is very bright to the eye - it is a GE aquaray bulb.........hope that helps - thanks for the advice!


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## Guest (Oct 13, 2006)

I bet the bulb is 40 watts....which is pretty low light, so it may be contributing to the algae. So many things can cause brown diatoms though, so its hard to say.

You may want to cut the feeding to once a day and see if that helps. You could be overfeeding, and not knowing it. 

Do you test your water? If so, what is your usual nitrAte reading?

I think if you start changing water 50% weekly and scrubbing the algae, cutting back to once a day feedings, and try to keep your nitrAtes on the low side (less than 40ppm) then the algae should start going away. Brown diatoms is normal in new tanks and while yours is pretty new, the algae should start going away, but other things can contribute to it and make it keep growing.

Try that plan...hopefully you can get rid of it! I am battling it in my new cichlid tank and I know it is ugly stuff!


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## fish_doc (Jan 31, 2005)

If it is because of a lower light bulb you could try running it a hour longer every day. Do you have the lights on timers or do you just run them "manually" and how long do you run them each day?


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## Gary (Aug 17, 2005)

I run the lights on a timer - about 14 hours a day. My nitrate reading is probably in the 80-ish range - those colors are hard to read for me. Thanks for all the suggestions..........keep em comin'!


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## Christine (Nov 4, 2005)

You need to do your water changes more frequently to keep your nitrates down. Thats too high imo. I think you'd be best to stay 20 or under tho some people say 40 or under.

Oh, I should add... high nitrates will contribute to algae.


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## Gary (Aug 17, 2005)

forgot to ask - would it be suggested to do 50% weekly changes always or just until things "settle in"?


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## KiltyONeal (Jan 25, 2006)

Otos (Otocinclus affinis) will eat that brown algae and soft green algae as well.


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## Puffer Pita (Jun 16, 2006)

Always.


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## Guest (Oct 13, 2006)

I agree with Boxermom...always do 50% weekly. It will keep you nitrAtes in a better range.

And yes otos will eat the brown algae...but with nitrAtes at 80...I don't think they'd live too long. If you still have algae problems after doing a few 50% weekly water changes, then you could get some otocinclus to help...but make sure nitrAtes are in a safer range (<20ppm is best).


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## jasno999 (Oct 16, 2006)

I will throw my 0.02 cents in on this one.

I would look at filtration. Many times if you over filter it will really help cut down on algae growth. That is what I have found in my tank keeping. I run a canister and HOB filter on my 29gallon and never have to deal with much in terms of algae.

Anotehr thing to look at is the quality of the water you are adding to the tank. If the water goign in is high in bad stuff like nitrites or phosphate than you might want to treat it or add some chemical media to yoru filtration system. I will occasionaly run phosphate remover in my filter for my fresh water tank. It does help and coudl be worth a try.


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## judya (Jan 23, 2005)

I wouldn't do 50% a week more like 20%.


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## Gary (Aug 17, 2005)

Before I read the last response, I went with the advice of two separate 50% water changes. After I did the first, in a couple of days the water got cloudy and the brown algae came back. I measured the nitrates and they are now down to about the 10-20 range. I did the 2nd 50% change. Have I forced the tank into a new cycling phase? One of my 2 platies is staying on the bottom and not swimming much most of the time and I lost a cory as well. I didn't mention it earlier, but I had added 2 otos when the algae first started appearing and one died. Should I start to worry?? Thanks for any help.


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## jasno999 (Oct 16, 2006)

50% is a bit much - can be done but not best for your situation. If oyu had a canister filter and had lots of built up bacteria in it then a 50% cahnge woudl be ok. I would do 20-30% changes.

Brown algae is more typical for a new aquarium. This is not yoru specific case but from what I have read I think the algae might be coming from a lack of bacterial filtration. In the move and thru the cleanings you may have removed a large amount of the bacteria present in the tank and gravel. This may have cause the tank to cycle again and algae to form.

Typically brown algae is not all that bad. YOu should probably leave it be and let the bacteria build up again. Increase your lighting or jsut keep the current light on for longer periods of time and the brown stuff should convert over to green algae.


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## Gary (Aug 17, 2005)

anyone familiar with a product called "No More Algae" by Jungle? Should I consider that as a fix? Right now the tank is cloudy green in color, but with brown algae still forming too...........


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

In short Gary, no.

Diatoms are a harmless symbiotic algae that occurs when tanks have poor water flow, an unestablished bacterial filter, poor lighting or water high in silicates (any one or more of the above can contribute). What is sounds like is the tank is new. I know you took the filters from an established tank but if they were left dormant for even an hr, the bacteria was killed. When you did a large waterchange, it triggered a bacteria bloom. Common and what you want to see as it is the growth of new bacteria. Keep changing 20-25% of the water weekly and it will clear up and go away on its on. All you need now is patience.


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## Gary (Aug 17, 2005)

I did about a 25% change and the water keeps getting more and more green - can barely see the fish now! Should I consider something else or is this still "normal" for what I am going through?


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## Puffer Pita (Jun 16, 2006)

From someone I consider to be an expert (http://www.aquariaplants.com/cloudygreenwater.htm):

4) Green water...algae bloom. This is the most common problem if the cloudy situation extends beyond 10-14 days. Note that "green water" is not always green in appearance! Since green water is the most common problem and the most difficult to solve the answer needs to reflect several options. The situation that causes GW (Green Water) is usually a combination of high nitrates, phosphates, and mixed in some ammonia/ammonium. Substrate disturbance is usually the culprit. Water changes alone will usually not rid a tank of GW. Nutrients can be reduced very low in GW and fairly quickly by the GW algaes, but they can scavenge other nutrients...iron and trace elements. So, it's very common for the GW to solve the situation that causes it to begin with, but that won't eliminate the GW. Five methods exist to eliminate GW. Blackout, Diatom Filtering, UV Sterilization, Live Daphnia, and Chemical algaecides/flocculents. The first four cause no harm to fish, the fifth one does. 

Method No. 1 
The blackout method. Turn off CO2 and add an airstone if available. Your fish and plants will be fine during this short period of time. When doing a blackout follow this procedure exactly. 

Day one. 

1) Feed your fish. Wait one hour, then do a 50% water change. 

Also day one. 

2) Cover the tank completely with towels, blankets, or garbage bags so that no light whatsoever gets into the tank...all sides and top must be covered. 

Day two. 

3) Leave the tank alone...completely alone. Do not change any water, do not feed your fish, and do not even peek to see if the green water is going away during the blackout period. The tank must have complete darkness and no feedings during the blackout period. 

Day three. 

3) Leave the tank alone...completely alone. Do not change any water, do not feed your fish, and do not even peek to see if the green water is going away during the blackout period. The tank must have complete darkness and no feedings during the blackout period. 

Day four. 

3) Leave the tank alone...completely alone. Do not change any water, do not feed your fish, and do not even peek to see if the green water is going away during the blackout period. The tank must have complete darkness and no feedings during the blackout period. 

Day five. 

4) At the end of the blackout period do another 50% water change and lightly feed your fish again. Also address any nutrient deficiencies you may have at this time. Remove the airstone and restart your CO2 injection if using such.

Seven days after day five. 

5) Do another 50% water change one week later, then resume you normal water changing routine thereafter. 



Method No. 2 
Diatom filters can usually be rented from your LFS. This is my preferred method. Personally, I use my Magnum 350 w/Micron Cartridge coated with diatom powder. Diatom filtering removes the algae and doesn't allow it to decay in the tank. You do have to check the filter often, if you have a really bad case of GW the filter can clog pretty quick. Just clean it and start it up again. Crystal clear water usually takes from a few minutes to a couple of hours. 

Method No. 3 
UV Sterilizers will kill free floating algaes. They also kill free floating parasites and bacteria. They also can be problematic for extended use in a planted tank, as they could cause the “breakdown” of some important nutrients though how much actual effect this has is debateable. They are expensive and don't remove the decaying material from the tank, if you can afford to keep one they are handy to have around, though not as useful IMO as a diatom filter. 

Method No. 4 
Adding live daphnia to your tank. This can be a bit tricky. First you need to insure that you are not adding other "pests" along with the daphnia. Second, unless you can separate the daphnia from the fish, the fish will likely consume the daphnia before the daphnia can consume all the green water. 

Method No. 5 
I hate the last way, the flocculents stick to the gills of fish, while not killing them it does compromise their gill function for quite a while leaving them open for other maladies. Make sure when using these "water clarifiers" that your KH is at least 3 degrees...again though not a method I recommend.


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## girth vader (Apr 24, 2006)

sorry you had to lose fish over nonesense. Diatoms are fine, if it was a 4 yr old tank, then I would say you have a problem, but it's a new tank, clean it by hand until in goes away, and it will. Ottos eat it as well, but not all do. SOme get spoiled by eating the good stuff and refuse to eat the Diatoms. Secondly nitrAtes at 80 ppm will NOT kill your fish, but the stress of taking it down from 80 to 10 in a day will. If you find that your nitrates are creeping high every week, like in the 80-100ppm range then do more frequent 20% water changes, like every second day. That way the water parameters will adjust slowly and your fish dont stress. then I would look at discontinueing the use of you UGF. Try not using that for a month and see if that helps with your nitrates. As for your algea bloom you have now, dont go over 20% and dont do it more then every other day, 3 day blackout, and it will sort itself out. That Jungle labs stuff doesnt help. just adds more chems to an already unbalanced tank.


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## Gary (Aug 17, 2005)

I followed the advice of method #1 above - very tempting to not peek, but I made it through all 4 days. I just did the 50% change last night on day 5 and things look much better - still a little cloudy and a bit green, but way better. Just passing this on to anyone who might read it and be thinking of what to try. I'm hoping water will be crystal clear any day - it's tough to be soooo patient! Thanks for the advice.


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## jasno999 (Oct 16, 2006)

Why are you still doing 50% water changes?


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## Puffer Pita (Jun 16, 2006)

What's wrong with 50% water changes?


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## Gary (Aug 17, 2005)

I followed the advice of method #1 because it seemed like it made some sense and it suggested 50% changes on the schedule listed. Everyone seems to have differing opinions on that and maybe there is more than one way to "skin a cat". For now, I'm going to stay the course with that method and see what happens - my tank is still a bit cloudy green in appearance, but it has improved. I did the 50% change on day 5 and that was 2 days ago. I'm not sure when to expect the water to be back to totally clear, but I'm trying to be patient. At least I have not lost any more fish.........other thoughts?


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

A blackout is the cheapest and second most effective way to treat greenwater..... A UV sterilizer is the best method.
You have to do a large waterchange after a blackout because the algae is still in the tank. It is dead and all decaying organisms will foul up the water. If there is still a greenish tint to the tank, the blackout wasn't long enough. I'd do it again in a week.


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