# Funlad3's 75 Gallon Reef Tank



## funlad3

I got my 75 gal. SW tank yesterday. Sorry, I'm pressed for time and will go in depth later. Basically, I bought it from some college kid. $2500 worth of stuff for $350. List later. Basically, on a whim, he decided to give me his Marine Betta. I couldn't finish setting up the tank yesterday, so it's in a clean 5 gal. at home with a heater (82*) and an air stone. I just need to add about 20 more gallons and I'm ready to roll. Got to go!  More later

Advice on the fish? It's sitting stressed on the bottom but is still very responsive. I'm not worried though. Still, any experience or advice? Any extra info can and does help the fish!


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## BettaFriend

Wow! Congrats on your find! I am looking at something myself I found on craigslist. Haven't talked to the parents, yet, though. It is more of a trade than a buy.

I don't know much about marine bettas, but unlike freshwater bettas, they aren't suitable for 5 gallon tanks lol jk (I know). Are you stuck with the betta, though? Is the person going to call you back, or check up on him? Or would he never know if you gave him away (hehe jk)?

Does the fish look cool? I'll google the fish, as I haven't seen a pic of a marine betta in some time.


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## CollegeReefer

Nice. Post some pictures. I have no experience with the marine betta but I will do some research to see what I can find.


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## Revolution1221

marine bettas are fairly easy to keep from what ive heard. they love feeder guppys and its amazing to watch them eat the way the scare the fish towards there mouth by flicking their tail. idk anything about specifics with them like tank mates and such. i know we have kept sailfin tangs, yellow tangs, foxface rabbit fish, and 8 lined wrasse with them. we have had a few at the store and never had one die since ive been there.


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## CollegeReefer

I just read a few threads and yes they seem to be bulletproof. They sound like they are really shy and only come out of the rockwork when they are feeding. They should be offered a selection of meaty foods.

From Liveaquaria:

"The Marine Betta, sometimes referred to as the Comet, is found in rocky crevasses, at depths up to 45 meters. It is a hardy and disease-resistant fish. A predator by nature, it assumes a "head down" position, with its false "eye spot" near the tail resembling the head of a moray eel. 
The Marine Betta is not commonly kept in a reef-style aquarium, but it is reported to be safe with corals and anemones, however, it will eat all small fish and shrimp. It is nocturnal and requires hiding places to provide it shelter from bright lighting, being more active at dusk. 

When first introduced into the aquarium, live saltwater feeder shrimp should be used to entice this fish to eat. Using live foods such as feeder fish or shrimp will help it adjust. Once acclimated, it can be fed meaty foods and frozen preparations 2-4 times weekly."


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## Revolution1221

yeah thats one thing i forgot to mention they hide ALL the time. they need a really good hiding spot they can claim as there own.


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## funlad3

They've had this fish in the tank for about four years and it eats it's carnivore flake/pellet food like a pig. It'll be on it's own for a while (See, I'm patient! ) It also looks awesome, and will hopefully settle in nicely. Everything is now running, but one of my Rio2500s is making the grinding noise of death... Ideas? I'll post a picture of my "Accidental Aquascaping" in a minute...


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## funlad3

As you can tell, my aquascaping is in a slope. It was accidental because I added the rock last night at 11:00 in extremely murky water (less than 1 inch visibility...) It turned out nicely! It looks like the lighting is PC with four bulbs. Two aren't working, though the bulbs are brand new. Supposedly, I need two small, cheap parts... We'll see about that...

Right now, my biggest concern is the Rio, so if you have any ideas, shoot. I really don't want to have to give it a vinegar bath or surgery, but I may need too... Ideas? Questions? Comments?

(I will be taking out the sand (Ugh...) later this week and will add Crushed Coral or whatever I mean (I always forget which...) in maybe a month. All that I have are three mushrooms and a dead(?) brain coral. Is it dead if it still has most of its color?)


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## funlad3

Excuse me while I subscribe to my own thread.... Just passin' along...


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## funlad3

*Help!!!*

Oh, you thought I needed serious help... Nope. Should I "Feed" the mushrooms? I know they're photosynthetic, but at their previous home, they were fed mysis shrimp... Thoughts? My pumps are still acting up as well... On the upside, the water is getting VERY clear (in comparison I suppose...) and the Betta was just sticking out of it's cave staring at me. Not a bad set in time; it's been in for all of two hours, and it's already coming out to look around! I think I'll feed it some of (A little! I'm not one to overfeed!) its special food (For security purposes)at about 9:00. Now I need to work out the light timer... Hmmm...


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## funlad3

Right now, I'm scared. All that I've done so far is set up the tank and feed the fish three pellets. The SG is at 1.023 and the tamp is at 80. I'm getting the other levels today, but so far, this has been too easy. What am I forgetting to do??? I know I need to get my skimmer working too, but more on this latter...


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## funlad3

Well here I am, simply talking to myself...

Anyways, the Marine Betta is doing awesome! So are the mushroom corals. There are even already (After one day!) new ones emerging from the LR, which has been in this tank for years. I'll take and then post some pictures before presenting my problems so far and my questions! I'll add/edit them in after I take them.


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## BettaFriend

So funlad, are you planning a new list of fish to put in your aquarium? Forgive my lack of knowledge, but are bettas aggressive towards fish that wont fish in their mouths? I am curious to know what else you plan to eventually put in there with him.

Keep us posted!

(btw, BettaFriend (me) is a friend to all bettas!)


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## funlad3

If they don't fit, they don't fight. Supposedly! My Stocking plan for my 75 gallon reef is

1. Marine Betta
2. Fox Faced Rabbit Fish (Not the One Spot Fox Face... Not as classy...)
3. Powder Brown Tang
4. 1 or 2 Royal Gramma(s)
5. Long Nosed Hawk Fish


I think I may have to ditch one of the larger fish... Will I? My largest concern as of now is getting the skimmer to work. The bubbles only rise halfway through the reaction chamber... Pictures early tomorrow morning...

Good Night!


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## BettaFriend

Neat setup. Just curious, the betta isn't going to turn the gramma and longnose into a snack, is he/she?

I plan on getting a gramma and longnose for my ??g tank when I get something setup. I also love gobys!


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## funlad3

LNHW get to about 5 inches, and so do most of the RG's I see around here. The LNHF is fine for sure, and the Betta still has much too small a mouth to snack on a gramma. I'll get the FFRF next, then the Royal, so that it and the Betta grow at the same rate. Gotta go, pictures at lunchtime, I promise.


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## BettaFriend

Well, he may not be able to eat the RG now, but you might want to find out how big a fish the betta will eat when it is an adult.

I feel so silly. I just now figured out what the abbreviations were (RG=Royal Gramma, LNHK longnose hawkfish).


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## funlad3

The Marine Betta is only nineish inches max. He'll be fine. Grrr! Out of time to upload pictures again!


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## BettaFriend

I wasn't worried about the betta....(smallish tankmates)


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## funlad3

I mean he won't get big enough to eat the RG. (Assuming I get the RG at over 2 inches long...)

Pictures!!!











My Marine Betta. He likes to watch me from his series of caves... When I look at him, he swims into the caves backwards... Creeper. But he's my creeper!











Full Protein Skimmer











Inlet Pump











From Inlet Pump to Internal Skimmer











Air Inlet. I Don't know where it goes...











Close up of valve on Air Inlet











Possible Air Inlet hole *#1*











Possible Air Inlet hole *#2*











Does it go here (*#1*)











Or here? (*#2*)











Water Outlet Pipe











Water Outlet











*Inside of Protein Skimmer. The foam is about four inches away from the overflow cup. Any ideas why?*


Just to reward you all for reading this, I'll temporarily leave you with a full tank shot from Monday night.










I'll add an updated FTS and more pictures of the tank itself later tonight. If you can answer any of my Protein Skimmer questions or have any ideas, (Location of the air inlet or how to raise the foam level) do post!

Thanks for any help!


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## BettaFriend

Unfortunately, I don't know anything about Protein Skimmers. I just wanted to ask, is that a DIY Protein Skimmer, or is that what they all look like?

I would make sure to get the RG at 2" or more. I think they get up to 3 inches, but don't take my word for it!

Glad your Marine Betta seems to be doing great!

Keep us posted!


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## funlad3

I don't know what brand it is, but I don't think it's DIY. According to the previous owners, the whole filtration system was bought from an LFS near me. I'll look into them if we can't all come up with an answer...


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## funlad3

Instead of posting 60 pictures, just go here!!!

http://my75gallonreeftank.blogspot.com/

Subscribe if you so choose!

Goodnight everyone!!! I'm sure I'll dream about fish!


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## BettaFriend

Just a quick question; What are you feeding your betta?


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## funlad3

Some form of pellet food... It came with the tank and the fish was SUPPOSEDLY eating it. I've also seen it eat stuff off of the rocks.


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## TheOldSalt

There is likely an adjustment knob controlling water level in the skimmer. It is usually on the exhaust side, controlling the outflow. The idea is that you use the knob to control the rate at which the water leaves the skimmer. Restrict the flow, and the water rises. When it is at the level you want, re-adjust to allow outflow matching the inflow, which keeps the level at one steady height. This usually takes several adjustments over a few hours' time to finally get it perfect and stable.
I forgot all that in the PM I sent you, ( SO obvious I didn't even think of it ) so here it is, and try this before looking at the other stuff.


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## funlad3

TOS, I've already tried to adjust the knob, and to no avail. Ill try to adjust the depth of the water that the pump is in, otherwise, I'll get to give the pump surgery. Yay.


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## CollegeReefer

The barb fitting on your collection cup is a skimmate drain. Make sure it is plugged or going to a container or all your skimmate will go back into your tank.

As for your foam it sounds like you need to adjust your water level in the skimmer and or the depth the skimmer sits in as TOS said. Sometimes just adjusting the pump will make a difference too.

The tang in your fish list should be avoided. I won't even put powder brown tang in my 120. If you have to have a tang in your 75 gallon i would looke at a kole tang.

How are your levels doing? Even though the tank was established before you bought it when you mix up the sand and move it you are going to go through another cycle. Keep an eye on your levels.

As for your rock work keep an eye on it. I am worried about your right side. It isn't really open which means flow in and around that area won't be good which results in organics setteling.


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## Fishfirst

Unfortunately, the marine betta is a predator that will eat any small fish eventually including a full grown royal gramma. They have huge mouths. I would choose larger, non-picky fish such as the Long nose hawk, maybe look into larger species of cardinalfish, Cirrhilabrus wrasse, and larger species of Goby/blenny.


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## funlad3

Thanks FF, I'll sadly skip the Gramma. I've also seen how large the fish can open it's mouth. It has the same type of jaw as a Large Mouthed Bass. Small to big very fast.

College Reefer, I'll hook up a skimmer collection bucket to the cup tomorrow. Again, I can't get the pump at a higher flow than it is already, so I'll need to clean it out. Sunday? My return pump is the same model (Rio2500) and it has a much higher flow...

As for chemical levels, there are only two tests that I trust. Salinity and Calcium. My specific gravity is at 1.023 according to the hydrometer. According to my Salifert calcium test kit, my calcium is somehow *more than 500 PPM*!!! All that I've added was some Purple Up! Any ideas as to where that's coming from? I sure don't have any. (My substrate is sand...) If you're one to trust FW Strips, my pH is at about 8.3, and hardness at the highest the test measures... Again, these are merely strips, but I'm going to get a SW master test kit. My nutrients are low, according to the few corals I have, (All are thriving) the dying algae, and those meritless paper strips.

My lowest flow is in that ridge along the back of my tank (Here http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_z5H72IAzetA/TS5qxwCgvfI/AAAAAAAAACM/a0um-cZkjxQ/s1600/Tunnel.JPG ). Otherwise, my flow circulates around the whole tank at an okay rate. Will I add powerheads? Yes. Do I need them yet? No.

Fish! As I mentioned earlier, I'll drop the RG, keep the LNHW, and keep the FFRF. Then, I'll add all of the awesome corals that make a reef a reef. If my nutrients are near zero, I may chance the kole tang. But that shouldn't be for maybe a year. 

Thoughts on all of this? 

(CollegeReefer, how's your build coming along? It's been over a month? Is the system filled yet?)


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## funlad3

Tomorrow, I'm going to the Sea Schor in Buffalo Grove, Il. It's my designated coral place, while Fish Planet in Deerfield Il. (I think?) is my designated fish place. I think I'll bring my skimmer and see if the guy can fix it. Otherwise, I'll trade (Hopefully!) pumps or just get a new one. In the extreme case, I'll get a new skimmer! I got the water level right at the brim, but now the air intake isn't giving me enough small bubbles, only large ones. One thing after the other... 

On the bright side, tomorrow I'm getting my CUC, mostly Mexican Turbos and Blue Legged Hermits. I know Scarlets are more passive, but I have tons of old Turbo shells in my tank, so I should be fine. I need to make more water (Stupid Evaporation.) So far, I've used my filtered water from my fridge. I know, I know, bad. I'm getting both that water and my tank water tested tomorrow, so I guess we'll see. 

Questions? Comments? Criticism? Go for it!


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## BettaFriend

Man, that don't get water from the sink thing is annoying! I otta just get a test kit for phosphates and just see how bad my water is. What is the highest I can _saftely_ go? Souldn't there be something to kill the phosphates? I might just have to go RO (and invest in a unit).

Anyway, funlad3, if there is a chance that you might be getting a new skimmer, I'd read up on brands. I know by heart all the brands that my lfs carries. I'd do some research so you don't get caught on the spot and come out with a piece of junk labeled "protein skimmer".

Anyway, it'll get easier....


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## funlad3

I know what brands are good and what brands are bad. Actually, let me check my skimmer, those huge bubbles MAY be working after all... No dice. Darn!

Should I just go with this?

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/for/2158284683.html

At the store today, if the guy has a good used PS, (He sets up and takes down tanks.) I may just have to buy it. But now, I have to watch the Chicago Bears destroy!


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## CollegeReefer

funlad3 said:


> As for chemical levels, there are only two tests that I trust. Salinity and Calcium.


Are you saying that you only test calcium and salinity? If so you really need to test no3, no2, ammonia, and even phosphates. When you dose any sort of calcium addative like purple up you should also be testing alk and mag. If you dose it you should test it.

I am not sure if you stated this but are you using ro/di water? If not you should be. 

As for the marine beta if I were you I would try to sell it or trade it to an lfs. They are not a cheap fish so you might be able to get a decent price for it plus then you can stock the tank with the fish you want. Haveing such an agressive fish in the tank first will cause problems down the road.

As for my project it is on hold for now. We had to adjust our finances after finding out my wife was pregnant. Babies are expensive but I am excited to become a father.


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## funlad3

Congrats College Reefer! I'm sure you'll be an awesome dad!

As for my levels, my test kit turned out to be FW only... I did have some really old strips that said my water was at a pH of at least 8.4, ammonia and nitrites below .25 and nitrates below 5. I don't trust the strips and will have my water tested at the store within an hour. Next time I go to my designated fish store, I'm getting a liquid test kit. Until then though, yes. The only levels I trust are my salinity and calcium levels. I know, not a great place to be.

As for the marine betta, I'm definitely keeping it. It looks awesome, and has an awesome personality. It's very reclusive; when you walk into my room, it swims slowly for the rocks. If you can look it in the eye though, it freezes and stares you down. It's a VERY funny fish that I want to have around. 

I don't use RODI water, yet. I never had a chance to get it from Dominicks, so so far, I've been using filtered refrigerator water; also mot a good place to be in. So far though, my corals are growing even more rapidly than before! I'll ad pics of them expanded in a few minutes.

Hopefully, I can get a new/used skimmer from the Sea Schor in about an hour. Until then, *Da Bears!*


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## CollegeReefer

The reason I ask about the ro/di is because on your blog some of the pictures are showing a lot of hair algae. A lot of time water from your faucet is full of phosphates which fuels algae and I can cause major problems down the road. We have a club member that just switched to ro/di but when it comes to her phosphates they are still a problem. Some believe that the rock itself can ultimately hold on to the phosphates and continue to leech out into your tank. You mentioned that you are using filtered refrigerator water. I am guessing you are talking about something like a bretta water filter. All those filters have in them is carbon. When i was running my aquapod I was buying ro water from the grocery store which wasn't too much after you paid for the initial jug but my advice to you is to pick up ro/di unit for your house. You could pitch it to your parents that not only do you get good water for your tank but your parents can use the water as well instead of bottle water for most bottle water is city water that has gone through a ro system.


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## funlad3

College Reefer, (I'll just call you CR to save the two seconds. ) I've already tried the RODI pitch to no avail. On the other hand, here's an update!

Yesterday at the Schor, I brought the protein skimmer and pump. We decided that the pump wasn't strong enough to take in air, so I needed another. He found the next best model from RIO, and it was *$130!!!* He then said that instead of him selling me that, he'd recommend finding a used ASM on the internet for about the same price. That's just what I did!!! Will the ASM mini G work? I found one here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330520029521&ssPageName=ADME:X:AAQ:US:1123

He'll also be posting the ASM G1, but I'd prefer the Mini G. Still though, what do you all think? And yes, I have decided on ASM.... They have awesome reviews and work awesomely at the store.

Also, my water was tested.

My pH *WAS* at about 8.4.
My Calcium *WAS* at over 500.
My Ammonia *WAS* almost 0.
My Nitrites *WERE* almost 0.
My Nitrates (Strangely) *WERE* almost 0. (Same with phosphates.)

I got my clean up crew as well! 12 astrea snails for $12, and 24 Blue Leg Hermits for $7.20. Because my levels were so low and my Calcium so high, (I watched the guy do the tests and read them. I even read them for myself! He didn't lie; so there!) I splurged and bought a Hammer Corral for $25. No, it sadly wasn't Australian, though for $200, it could have been. 

When I brought everything home, I added the coral last. When I was taking it out of the bag, I dropped one of the halves (We fragged it into two at the store.) polyp down in an empty bucket!!!:sad: After it was in the tank, it wouldn't open. After dinner though, it was inflated and opened just like in the store, so it appears to be fine. My new CUC was VERY funny when I put them in. A small BLHC jumped onto a larger one from a rock ledge. The big one started attacking it with it's feelers until it was flipper. It then tried to crush it between itself and the sand. This happened three times in five minutes until the small crab ran away. The big one went the other way for a minute and then turned back and charged! It was about to reach the small one until it dove into a hole in the rocks. 

The astreas all slowly moved to their outposts as the war on algae began. Of course, there's always the one snail you wish you hadn't gotten... One of the astreas made a beeline for one of my rocks that was COVERED in pastel purple corraline algae. It's now half gone, but the snail moved.

The hammer looks awesome under my one working blue LED, which brings me to a question. Why does my LED give me ripples on the sand whereas the PC, or whatever it is, does not?

Anyways, do you all have any thoughts on what I should add as a CUC? I may want to get an emerald crab or two... Also, I wrote a list of corals that I like, even though I know I'll be ale to keep maybe three off of the list... Stupid lighting...


1. Carnation Coral

2. Yellow Fiji Leather

3. Finger Leather Coral

4. Birds Nest Coral

5. Montipora Coral

6. Candy Cane Coral

7. Tube Coral

8. Torch Coral

9. Bubble Coral

10.Tooth Coral

11. Fox Coral

12. Plate Coral

13. Brain Coral

14. Cat's Paw Coral

15. Zoas

16. Other Softies


Sorry for no Latin Names... Again, I know I can't keep most of these... Hopefully though, this can give you a taste of the kind of corals I like. Do any of you have ideas of LPS or Softies that would fit my liking? If it's absolutely necessary to keep a coral I HAVE to have, an HQI pendant may be a possibility...

Thanks for reading!


*EDIT*

Sorry! FOR WHATEVER REASON< MY PICS. DIDN'T RESIZE!!! HELP!!!! (Don't forget my coral questions though...


*EDIT # 2*

You know what, for the pics, just go to this link... Sorry...

http://my75gallonreeftank.blogspot.com/2011/01/sea-schor.html


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## funlad3

Instead of bumping, I'll say that my Marine Betta, thinking it was alone, tried to eat one of my small hermit crabs. It spat it out after it realizing it wasn't food. Silly Piscis!


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## funlad3

Hello? Why aren't posts staying on the New Posts tab? Also, Rev, where are you? I hope your new job doesn't have you running out of your shoes! Good night everyone!


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## funlad3

Wow! I keep posting at inopportune moments!


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## funlad3

Back on the new post list! I actually feel bad for "bumping..." Sorry!


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## funlad3

Is there some secret taboo saying that no one can post a reply to anything I say???? Hmmmm...

Anyways, my hammer is doing well, my camera may be working once more, (Assuming that the current problem is with the battery...) I found a red and white striped feather duster, (It's EXTREMELY sensitive to vibrations! It can sense me walking down the hall even though this whole floor is carpeted!) Oh, and now, Piscis has decided to boycott his flake food... I wonder sometimes whether it hates me or if it just likes to annoy me. It'll go after hermit crabs and algae for the first time in my tank, but it stops eating it's regular food? *WITH GARLIC???* Grr! 

Someone from one of the many LFS's nearby (Not the Schor) recommended ghost shrimp. Any validity? What else should I supplement its diet with?

If this a boycott, at least yell at me for something I have/n't done! Please? I like abuse!!! :arrow: Sort of...


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## blindkiller85

I feel the same way. Most of my posts I've went and answered myself (but I still post, am happy to be here and hopeful). I'm not a big SW guy, just helped a buddy with his 75 gallon FOWLR like 5 years ago. But I google'd this below.



> Marine Betta fish can as earlier mentioned be hard to get to eat and only occasionally accepts dead food such as frozen food, mussel, shrimps and fish fillets. They are best feed live fish or live black worms. Black worms are often an appreciated food and can be a good choice to use when trying to teach these fish to learn to eat frozen food. It is important to give them a varied diet. Their shy nature and slow feeding habits means that you will have to take speciall care to make sure that they get enough food.


Frozen brine, live brine, probably won't be a problem. Same with live ghost shrimp. Sounds like with a Marine Betta it's hit or miss and try, try again.

EDIT: Can't go wrong with live ghost shrimp to some extent. Googling that one for SW tanks shows that some ghost shrimp (say 1-2+ out of 12) will survive for 2 weeks. With your tank and the minimal competition, feed with the daylights off and the moon on. Run away from the tank and watch your shy fish lol. If you put 12 in you might have to go searching for dead shrimp though via rocks.


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## funlad3

The annoying thing is that it just stopped eating flakes this week! On Thursday, it was eating them like a pig. Today, it watches them fall. I think it doesn't want me to see it eat. Last time, I was only looking out of the corner of my eye. Maybe...


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## blindkiller85

Try putting flakes in and running to a doorway and looking through the crack of the door to see if it makes a difference or hide behind something haha

My largemouth bass (while i had him for 2 weeks) was like this until I starved him for 3 days and he ate a earthworm from my hand. That was awesome. But I knew I had to release him lol


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## BettaFriend

If you think you isn't eating because of you, you can always do what I did to my Jewel Cichlid and setup a camera on a tripod and walk out of the room. Just leave the camera recording for a little while, and come back in the room later to watch the movie. Don't forget the popcorn!

Sorry, I don't know alot about brands or products. Trying to find something already fixed up off craigslist. Maybe something will come someday.

Sounds like your adding new coral? That is exciteing! Can't wait for the day, if it ever comes, that I'd be setting up coral.


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## funlad3

I did add the coral! Check it out on my blog! My camera is sort of we'll get there...


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## funlad3

TOS, I know that you're on now, sooo.... what is a good mostly reef safe butterfly fish? I think I want to scrap my old stocking plan and get just two or three medium sized fish. I'm not sure if I like the Copperband... I do absolutely love the Red Sea Raccoon Butterfly fish... (_Chaetodon Fasciatus_) I know that most butterflies aren't entirely reef safe, but I'd be more than willing to not add certain corals for this fish.


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## funlad3

You know, you've got to love my LFS. I asked them about butterfly fish and they said they're flat out not worth the risk. Got to love honesty. It's the same store that helped try to fix my protein skimmer and recommend a good brand when we couldn't. 

Yesterday, I went to get an Emerald Crab. Sadly, they ran out the day before. It wasn't a wasted ten minute drive though; I got a bunch of frozen mysis cubes for $8 for Piscis! He LOVES them. I accidentally let one of the cubes completely thaw, so all of the shrimp sunk to the bottom of it. I tried soaking a flake or two in the mysis juice, but Piscis just stared. Then I added a shrimp, and he dove out and swallowed it. I gave him four shrimp last night, only because they were small shrimp and I'm not sure Piscis has eaten anything for two weeks. He'll get two or three more shrimp on Sunday when the Bears KILL the Packers!

I'll add a video of Piscis eating Sometime after that.

Da Bears!


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## TheOldSalt

Most butterflies will munch on your corals, especially when they are hungry. You can fix this by keeping them well fed and/or keeping mainly sps corals instead of lps, but it's still a crapshoot. Copperbands are popular for pest control, but if you don't have enough pests, feeding them can be a hassle. Raccoons are usally good. C. sedentarius, the Gulf of mexico Reef Butterfly, is one of my personal favorites regarding ease of care and peacefulness, but it's colors are a bit subdued.


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## funlad3

Just to make sure I'm understanding you; Raccoon Butterflies are, when well fed, usually fine with non SPS corals? If so, that'll have just made my day.

I was just working on my light, and found I have three dead blue LEDs. As for the actual lights, I either have a dead ballast, or just a corroded connection. I hope it's the connection. It's A LOT cheaper, as we know. My fans were all caked in dust and salt, so know they're whisper quiet.


20 minutes later.... Nope, it's the ballast. Now I need t look and see if I can find one on the internet... And I guess in my tank, the sun is out for a day or two...


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## funlad3

The ballast is $70!!!! GRRRR!!!! The three LEDs are $16 each!!! Über GRRRRRRR!!!!!!


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## TheOldSalt

Not usually, but often, safe.


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## funlad3

Well, I guess I'll have to look around for someone who already has one so that I can be sure.


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## funlad3

Update time! I've yet to find a cheap ballast for Compact Florescent, (That's the type of the bulb for sure.) I did just buy an ASM mini G off of ebay for a total of $80, including shipping. Not too bad, huh? Piscis is being fed tommorow, so someone remind me to get a video of that. For the most part, nothing new is going on. I just cleaned the inside of the tank, but otherwise, that's it! My hand made lids are warping under the light, but they still lower the evaporation drastically. As for stocking, I still don't know. I guess I'll just get things that I know get along well with eachother and see what I end up with. It's an educated form of buying on a whim, you see! Now that I've said that, I'm sure CollegeReefer is going to come online and scold me. That seems to happen a lot. That's all for now folks! Here's a couple of shots from the camera inside my Mac!


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## funlad3

Well, I fed Piscis five mysis shrimp, of which he ate three. I know, that's a lot, but I'm preparing my biological filtration for a new addition. Hopefully, some time next month, I'll be getting/quarantining/adding my next addition fish wise. The Fox Faced Rabbit Fish (Lo vulpinus). The Marine Betta should love this new fish, as it supposedly used to have one as a tank mate and they got along swimmingly. Seriously, they swam together all day long. I'll post the video tomorrow in the video section, but until then, may your Actinic LEDs shine bright!


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## funlad3

I just got back from spending $75 on a FFRF (With a spot...) and a snowflake eel. They'd had the rabbit fish for a month (I've been watching it that long...) and the Snowflake since Tuesday. The eel is in quarantine and the FFRF is about to go in. I'm assuming there's to be a fight between Vulpis (FFRF) and Piscis. As I'm typing Piscis just came out into open water, a rare occurrence. To iMovie!!! (Five Minutes Later...) Well, that failed. My camera didn't even see Vulpis. (Latin for Fox) On the bright side, there was NO fighting, so hopefully it stays that way. Clean up time. So the question is, who's going to yell at me, and who's going to congratulate me? Poll in!


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## funlad3

Vulpis is now hiding in the rocks. Question: FFRFs aren't supposed to e shy, are they? I'd read everywhere that they aren't, but at the store, they guy said they were. Just, again, getting advice from actual people. Oh, and the store today was the Living Sea Aquarium.


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## BettaFriend

Congradulations!!! 

Awesome about the new fish! Glad to hear it is doing well! Unfortunately, I don't know much about Fox-Faced Rabbit Fish (I said it correctly, right?), but hopefully someone who does know alot can tell you about them.


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## funlad3

The Snow Flake Eel is even cooler. As soon as the FFRF comes out, I'll get pictures of them both.


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## BettaFriend

I forgot to say something about the SFE! Those things are AWESOME! To bad there aren't any mini-eels for a 30g tank lol! Can't wait to see the pics!


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## funlad3

It's only about ten inches long now, but its color is awesome. The ultimate nano eel is only a bit over $200! Gymnothorax meletramus; the Golden Dwarf Moray Eel. If they were cheaper, I'd have a pair. They get to eight inches max.

Anyways, Vulpis has got his color back until he lost it all for camoflauge when the lights went out. Tommorow, he'll have it back though. Then I'll try to get some pictures. Him and Piscis take turns in the back crevice. One comes in, the other comes out, looks around, perches somewhere, and goes back in. It's quite funny to watch. I also just found some sort of boreing worm... It drills holes in LR. It has no feelers, it's basically an earthworm that lives underwater. Pretty cool shtuff.

Oh, I also got an Emerald Crab with flawless camo. Cool.

Goodnight everyone!


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## funlad3

Sorry, the computer somehow double posted. To sleep I go! (And Cossie is probably waking up in two or so hours...)


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## funlad3

As I'm typing, Vulpis is out in the left side of the tank, under the outcropping I made. He's pecking at the sand bed and the live rock, eating small bits of hair algae. He doesn't seem to mind me so long as I don't make any sudden movement. I haven't yet checked on the eel, but I do know that it hasn't escaped out of the one opening in the lid of the bucket where the heater is. I'll definitely add some pictures later, but for now, I'll try to get some video of Vulpis now that he has his color. Wish me luck!


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## funlad3

Well, I took the video, and it disappeared! I can't find where it saved to! Anyways, TOS, I know your on, so what are your thoughts on my recent additions?


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## kay-bee

Sorry! I overlooked this thread, the title didn't catch my eye.

Here are some of my comments:



funlad3 said:


> My specific gravity is at 1.023 according to the hydrometer.


You may eventually want to upgrade to a refractometer. They can be more accurate and can be calibrated as well.



funlad3 said:


> ...my calcium is somehow *more than 500 PPM*!!! All that I've added was some Purple Up! Any ideas as to where that's coming from?


Probably from the Purple Up! It's largely a calcium product.



BettaFriend said:


> Shouldn't there be something to kill the phosphates?


Phosphate reactors granular ferric oxide/GFO are great at removing phosphates.



funlad3 said:


> My Nitrates (Strangely) *WERE* almost 0. (Same with phosphates.)


Undetectable nitrates are possible with lots of live rock in a marine tank.

In regards to the 0 or almost zero phosphate levels, the fact that you have nuisance algae is an indicator that there is phosphate in the system. Nuisance algae can uptake phosphate (PO4) as quickly as it is introduced (via food, tap water, etc) or leached (if it has been sequestered by live rock and sand), and produce a 'false 0ppm' result. 

PO4 levels as low as 0.03ppm are sufficient enough to to fuel nuisance algae and cyano. Many test kits aren't able to detect levels this low. For example a test kit that can only detect down to 0.25ppm may register 0.09ppm as 0ppm (which is already 3x the amount that is sufficient enough to fuel nuisance algae). 

A phosphate reactor can reduce PO4 levels to below 0.01ppm and maintain them there.



funlad3 said:


> Anyways, do you all have any thoughts on what I should add as a CUC? I may want to get an emerald crab or two...


Emeralds are great at combatting nuisance algae. The best algae-eating snails in my opinion and experience are turbo snails and trochus snails. A single turbo snail, in my opinion is equivalent to 4 or 5 astrea's and they're able to tackle certain types of algae that astrea's can't combat (such as wire algae). Astreas also have a habit of falling and can't right themselves. If not assisted they will die or get picked off by the hermits.



funlad3 said:


> ..I wrote a list of corals that I like, even though I know I'll be ale to keep maybe three off of the list... Stupid lighting...
> 
> 1. Carnation Coral
> 2. Yellow Fiji Leather
> 3. Finger Leather Coral
> 4. Birds Nest Coral
> 5. Montipora Coral
> 6. Candy Cane Coral
> 7. Tube Coral
> 8. Torch Coral
> 9. Bubble Coral
> 10.Tooth Coral
> 11. Fox Coral
> 12. Plate Coral
> 13. Brain Coral
> 14. Cat's Paw Coral
> 15. Zoas
> 16. Other Softies
> 
> ...Do any of you have ideas of LPS or Softies that would fit my liking? If it's absolutely necessary to keep a coral I HAVE to have, an HQI pendant may be a possibility...


If I understand correctly your lighting is comprised of 4x 65w PC bulbs (two acinics/two 10000K. With that lighting, the corals depicted in red font above should be fine (though many types of corals are listed as 'brains', some require more lighting than others, but something like a trachyphyllia or lobophylia may work). The same with the leathers as well.

Euphyllia's such as the hammer coral you already have and the torch coral on your list pack a powerful sting and can be territorial to other corals so they need some distance (4"-7") between them and other corals, though they'll sometimes be tolerant of their neighbors sometimes.

The hardiest LPS on your list is perhaps the candy cane coral.
Blastomussa is also a fairly hardy LPS with low to moderate lighting requirements.

"Soft corals" is category which contains a wide variety of corals. Some do fine under low/moderate lighting, some thrive under high lighting and some are non-photosynthetic. Soft corals such as mushrooms, yellow polyps, zoanthids and possibly xenia and anthelia should be fine.

The more stony corals that are stocked the greater the calcium and carbonate consumption will be.



funlad3 said:


> The hammer looks awesome under my one working blue LED, which brings me to a question. Why does my LED give me ripples on the sand whereas the PC, or whatever it is, does not?


LED is point source lighting (as are metal halides), so this type of lighting can produce a 'shimmering' affect. The output of PC/T5HO/VHO is diffused so shimmering isn't possible.


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## funlad3

Wow... A lot to review! Okay, I'll go in order. 

1. The stores all use hyrdometers too, and IMO, the whole hydrometer vs. refractometer thing is highly opinionated. 

2. I stopped dosing the purple up a week or so ago because as you said, it was mostly calcium and magnesium.

3./4. I really don't mind the phosphates seeing as my corals are doing awesome, the red cyno looks great, and my FFRF is already making visible progress on the algae. I'll probably make a refugium of sorts with chaeto (Or however it's spelled) to get rid of some of the nutrients.

5. So far, my astreas and BL hermit crabs are doing awesome! On one section of the tank that is. They clean it and expect more algae to grow. When it doesn't after about a week, (YAY!) they all lazily meander about the glass and silicone edges. When they start to get hungry, they all slowly move to another section of the tank. I got an Emerald yesterday, and it's already disappeared into a forest of algae. Good luck!

6. That's what I assumed for the corals. I may get a halide pendant and keep and SPS or two, but for now, I'm fine with that. I actually have 4bulbsx56watts of compact fluorescent. It's an old Coralife fixture. As for the dead ballast, we've located the problem to a dead ballast. I'm going to try to replace it tomorrow.

7. As for the ripples, my CF makes ripples on my floor, but not on the sand. I guess it makes sense though. It can travel through the water, or escape it onto my floor. Path of least resistence.



Again, my ASM mini G gets here on Tuesday. No more feedings until then! 

What do you all think on the fish though? My eel (Anguis, pronounced Ang-gwiss) was fine last night and I'm checking in a few minutes, Mt Foxfaced Rabitfish (Vulpes, pronounced Vull-piss) is eating algae behind all of my rock work, and my Marine Betta (Piscis, pronounced Piss-kiss) is guarding Vulpes.The Anguis remains in quarantine, but again, I'm checking on him now.

What's your opinion? And will TOS ever reply? Tune in next week (or later) for the next exciting installment of "I Won!!!"!


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## kay-bee

funlad3 said:


> 1. The stores all use hyrdometers too, and IMO, the whole hydrometer vs. refractometer thing is highly *opinionated*.


I've observed first-hand the differences in accuracy between hydrometers and refractometers as I own both instruments; I also observed critical descrepancies with customer hydrometer specific gravity readings and store-owned refractometer readings when I used to work at an SW LFS.

I recall one instance a customer noted was he only able to keep mushrooms alive in his tank, any other coral would die within 3 days. All of his typical water parameters (pH, alkalinity, calcium, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate), checked out fine...except for his salinity. 

His water sample registered a 1.015 specific gravity with a refractometer reading. He was shocked since his hydrometer reading taken just earlier the day indicated 1.022. Interestingly, his fish (damsels) were apparently doing fine in brackish water.

Refractomers can lose their accuracy over time but can be calibrated for continued accuracy by using a few drops of 1.0264 SG/@ 77F/25C calibration fluid. We calibrated weekly at the store, I calibrate about every 2 months at home. I'm not sure if hydrometer calibration is conventionally possible based on their shape and the volume of calibration fluid that would required. 

As a *demonstration* rather than *opinion* of the differences in accuracy, I've just measured the specific gravity/SG of one of my fish-only saltwater tanks. Refractomer reading: 1.022SG, Hydrometer reading 1.019SG. 

A subsequent refractomer reading of my calibration fluid indicates a SG just over 1.026 (which is close enough to the 1.0264 SG fluid) which tells me the refractomer's measurement is spot on. 

Now an SG that is a few points off in a fish only marine aquarium should not be a big issue, but it can be a significant issue in a reef tank.



funlad3 said:


> 3./4. I really don't mind the phosphates seeing as my corals are doing awesome


Phosphates affect stony corals more than soft corals as PO4 can interfere with normal calcium carbonate development and impede or significantly stall stony coral skeletal formation. The stony coral that you have (the hammer) hasn't been in the tank long enough for PO4 to adversely affect it. Many soft corals on the other hand can thrive in elevated phosphate conditions (notably mushrooms and xeniids such as anthelia and xenia). The latter two soft corals to a degree can uptake phosphate directly.


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## funlad3

The hammer is already growing a new branch of heads! It really is doing amazingly well. I do agree there is phosphate in my water, as can be proven by the algae, but it's on the decline with water changes; which can be proven by the fact it isn't coming back. Again, as soon as I figure out how I'm going to attach an algae filter, I'm adding a fuge. Still, WHAT SAY YOU ABOUT THE FISHES?


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## BettaFriend

Hey, how goes the fish? I was wondering what you feed them now. I have seen the coolest vids of snowflake eels. Is yours pretty active? Don't forget to get some pics of the SFE and the FFRF!


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## funlad3

I'm still trying to get the pictures! The Foxface is slightly shy, and the snowflake is currently missing, but in the tank. You'll be watching him and he'll swim into a hole that doesn't exist. When he comes out, he's on the other side of the tank! It's pretty weird. Last night, I fed Mysis again. Vulpes ate two, Piscis ate five o), and Anguis ate one. He swims around the tank, randomly disappearing. My Protein Skimmer is working well, I'm just adjusting the consistency of the skimate.


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## funlad3

Instead of adding more than 100 links, just go here: 

http://my75gallonreeftank.blogspot.com/2011/02/its-been-while-heres-taste-of-action.html

Feel free to take your favorite pictures, download them, email them, and post them here! the videos are still coming the first should be up in about twenty minutes. Enjoy!


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## funlad3

Back to this thread! For the introduction off my new clown fairy wrasse, Rutilus, go here!

http://www.fishforums.com/forum/general-saltwater/31435-new-clown-fairy-wrasse.html#post274343

Anyways, having a small wrasse is driving me crazy. I came into my room about 15 minutes ago and was scanning all over the tank for him. I naturally looked on the floor around the tank, because I had forgotten to add the second half of my lid back on. He's definitely not on the floor, not in the filter sock, and not in someone's stomach. This leads me to question #1!

1. I know wrasses sleep underneath the sand bed, but will they go under 30 minutes before the lights go off? I find it strange tha he was swimming around eating perfectly then disappeared into the sand while I watched Colbert from a few nights back.

I fed the tank the normal tri-weekly amount of one frozen mysis cube. I know it sounds like a lot, but that equates to about four minute shrimp per fish, excluding Anguis. Then, because Anguis usually only gets one shrimp, I fed him two pieces of clam meat. Each was about .5"x.5"x.25". Altogether, that's about four times the size of his head. Too much? I think so, but he was definitely still hungry... I don't think I'm overfeeding my tank but still...

Yesterday my water was at a pH of 8.4, 0ppm of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, and .5 ppm of phosphate. (there it is Kay-bee) Too avoid overfeeding, how much does one feed a young snowflake eel? About 1/3 of his body length looks expanded and full of food. I didn't see that until he started free-swimming after I stopped feeding him. Question number 2:

2. How much clam should I feed Anguis, my eight inch long Snowflake Eel?

As usual, my Protein Skimmer is spitting out micro bubbles, so I run it for about 18 hours every other day. I've isolated the bubbles to be coming from the outflow of the pump! No bubbles escape until the water start overflowing from the tube, and even then, it's fine. It's when water escapes from underneath the filter sponge that problems happen. I'll try to put a zip tie at the bottom of the sponge, securing it to the tube but:

3: If that doesn't work, what should I do to prevent microbubbles from escaping the exit tube of my protein skimmer? (Excluding a filter sock. I don't have room!)

For now, I think those are all of the questions that I have! Only three, I think that's a record! Answer or comment where you can and look for a new tank tour video coming out on my channel sometime this week!

Peace and good luck to all of you!


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## TheOldSalt

3- you have to let a skimmer break-in to cut back the bubbles. That means letting it run all the time. A bubble-catcher is the next step, whatever form it takes.

2-The Eel will eat whatever you feed him until he pukes, and then he'll start all over again. He probably wants more than you are giving him, and clam meat alone won't cut it. You can give him the two clams each day as a staple, but every few days give him some feeder fish and shrimp. He need the calcium from their bones and such. You might want to snap off the rostrums of the shrimp to prevent injury.

1- Once a wrasse learns when the lights go off each day, it knows when it's "bedtime" and will start to look for a good spot about a half hour before lights out. This is normal.


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## funlad3

#1, Okay, that makes sense, but will it learn in less than a day???

#2, Ghost shrimp, or will the two or three mysis he finds every other day cut it? Sadly, I'm assuming no...

#3, It was broken in, but whenever I move it,something happens. I'm sure I'll find a way to fix the bubbles and it'll start making noise again.

Thanks TOS!


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## ronmarsh99

Hey Funlad3 what kind of skimmer is it, maybe time for a new one? 
did you ever find the fish? I picked up that skimmer I was asking you about, it's a monster, 
going to be taking a break from buying other things I've spent alot in the last few months, And it's just killing my bank lol. Maybe just moving to fast into it, I want everything at once, but I think I will take a step back and just finsh off the stand for now. keep us posted on the skimmer and the lost fish!


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## funlad3

I still need to look at the skimmer, but the fish is happily swimming around now, still in the tank. Oh fishes, why must you all drive me crazy?


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## kay-bee

You could try to offer your eel silversides.


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## funlad3

It's my new tank tour video? I wonder who the focus is? It will be done processing at about 11:05 PM. Enjoy and post comments here, there, or everywhere!!!


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## funlad3

Anyone????


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## kay-bee

funlad3 said:


> ...and .5 ppm of phosphate. (there it is Kay-bee)...


If you end up developing a full-blown reef tank shoot for phosphate levels less than one-tenth of that (preferably undetectable).


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## funlad3

I know. My refugium is helping already to bring that level down. Eventually, I will win this inherited algae war! (I think the problem is with this sand. The algae only grows on the sand bed or on rock work where ANY AMOUNT of sand has settled. Am I adventurous enough to switch out my sand bed???


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## kay-bee

The live rock and sand are probably leaching phosphate. The leaching rate increases when phosphate in the water column decreases. However here is a finite amount of PO4 bound in your live rock and sand. The goal would be to remove it as quicky as it is leached (preferably faster than the algae can uptake it).

A phosphate reactor would be a good investment, in addition to the 'fuge.

You don't have to replace your sand but you could stir it up and remove the detritus cloud (if one appears during the stirring) during your next water change. If you have a deep sand bed (3"+ deep) sand stirring (and definately sand replacement) may or will disturb the anaerobic environment resulting in a disruption of the stage three bacteria function (nitrate to nitrogen gas).

What kind of algae is growing on the sand bed?


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## funlad3

The sand is less than an inch deep in most places, so I COULD change out my sand if I wanted too. I don't want to. On the sand bed itself, I have more of my WONDERFUL (Like the sarcasm?) Red Cyano Bacteria. Anywhere else where fine sand has settled, (Literally flour sized dust) just the hair algae. Would the "Two Little Fishies Phosban Reactor" work with the right media?


Also, on a side note; After I added the Wrasse, Piscis has become more reclusive and isn't eating as much. He looks healthy, and there are no signs of stress, but he's not swimming around the rock work as much. Any ideas? 

And what we do for our fish. I'm trying to help my fish, you're trying to help me, but who's helping all of those people in Japan?


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## kay-bee

Most new marine tanks (e.g., established for less than a year) may be affected by cyanobacteria due to the typical elevated excess-nutrient and dissolved organic compound levels. Established tanks with high bioloads or significant phosphate input (introduced into the tank via foods) may also be prone to cyano outbreaks.

When those levels drop or disappear, so will the cyanobacteria and nuisance algae.

A phosban reactor works well at phosphate reduction and removal when using a quality granular ferric oxide/GFO product. 

Manually removing as much of the cyano and nuisance algae is also recommended. As cyano and nuisance algae dies off they will release the nutrients it has sequestered which, in turn, will further fuel remaining cyano and algae. The elimination of circulation 'dead spots' or increase water flow may sometimes work.

A 3 to 5 day blackout will kill most cyano in the tank, and a water change on the last day of the black out will remove a significant portion of the phosphate they leech back in to the system.

How frequent are your water changes?


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## kay-bee

Hard to say why the wrasse is behaving the way it is. Could be that it is still relatively new or it could be something else.

What type of food did the LFS provide the wrasse?

It's always a good idea to ask the LFS to feed the fish before you purchase it so you can observe how it has been eating and what it has been eating. An observable robust appetite prior to purchase is a good sign of health.


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## funlad3

Sorry: Piscis is the marine betta. I guess I made that a bit unclear. The wrasse is eating absolutely everything I put into the tank! I do 15 gallon every other week water changes, so I guess it wouldn't hurt to up that...

As soon as I'm able to throw together some money, I'll try the phosphate reactor! When I saw the word reactor the first time, I thought of a calcium reactor and thought that a phosphate reactor would be equally expensive. NOT!

Thanks KB. Again, if you know what Piscis's problem may be, do tell!


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## kay-bee

Sorry for the fish misidentification on my part :shock:

If you get the phosban reactor you'll also need some other stuff: maxijet powerhead to run it and some 1/2 inch tubing. You can use it in a sump or in a hang on back position.

I actually run two reactors on my tank. The first one contains GFO and the second one contains carbon.


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## funlad3

That's what I thought! Gosh, 54 product reviews can be helpful, can't they?

Any idea about Piscis though? I'm sure he's fine, but I'd still love to see him more again!


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## funlad3

Famous last words in my previous post... Poor Piscis. 

ANYWAYS! I added my Copperband Butterfly fish, Aurem.

http://www.fishforums.com/forum/general-saltwater/31746-just-made-my-day-night-whatever.html


All of my fish seem to be doing fine, (KOW) and yesterday I added a Purple Monti Cap! It's about halfway from the top. I'll get pictures later. I also got two new filter socks! One for the entry into my sump, and the other to try to minimize the microbubbles from my skimmer! Still trying to figure out how to best add that one, But I'll figure it out!


Also, Yesterday I cleaned out my Fuge! *EVERY SALTY NEEDS A REFUGIUM!!!* Mine is a cleaned out 1 gallon pretzel container. I have constant water flowing into it via a 1/2" piece of sugical tubing from my overflow box. In it, I have 1 sandwich bag of Caulerpa Macro. I took the algae out of the fuge and rinsed it in my 10 gallons of water in my empty QT. All of the ten gallons were tinged brown. I then added the water that was inside of the prezel bucket, where the algae floats. The entire ten gallons of water instantly turned as brown as wet skimmate. *In one month, my refugium takes out ten times the amount of nutrients as my protein skimmer!*

Everyone should add a refugium to their salt water tank. EVERYONE!!!


I also FINALLY got a calcium reading on my Salifert test kit! My calcium is at about 465 ppm. I'll have to test this weekly now that I have an SPS coral in my tank. It's still small though, so I'm not too worried about that.

Lastly, I've eliminated most of the hair algae from my tank! True, I've had to continually pull out tons of it, I've finally got it to the point where my CUC and fish can halt its growth! Speaking of which, not only did I see my FFRF eating it this morning, but also my copperband and solaris wrasse! EVERYONE eats the algae. Even Anguis helps out by fanning the fine sand off of my LR. Without that, the algae can't grow! I forsee complete victory by the end of May! (Which may sound like a while, but it takes a LONG time to kill EVERY strand of algae in a tank. Why haven't we solved the problem of invasive species yet?)

Thanks for reading this predictably long post and stay on the lookout for new pictures and videos!!!

:fish::fun::fish:​


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## kay-bee

Traditionally macro-algae in a refugium uptakes (invisible) compounds such as nitrate, phosphate, dissolved nutrients and the like (with the goal being outcompeting nuisance algae in the system and providing a 'refuge' for copepods and other beneficial micro-crustaceans). 

From your description, it seems your caulerpa is functioning as a type of 'mechanical filtration' based on the 10gal of dirty water it 'released' when rinsed.

Since it is performing to some extent as mechanical filtration the caulerpa seems to be collecting a lot of micro debris and detritus. All of that matter is still in the system where organic break down/decomposition continues at the microscopic level (inevitable returning dissolved organic compounds back into the tank). 

Your filter socks should be screening a similar amount of detritus as your refugium (if not more, depending on the rated-microns of the socks).

Protein skimmers operate in a completely different manner (foam fractionation), and actually removes dissolved organics and the like from the sytem (e.g., the skimmate is no longer part of the system water).

The good news is that you are effectively removing waste from the system, so if it works don't fix it. :-D

Post a pic of your monti cap when you get chance. In addition to monitoring calcium levels, alkalinity levels should be tracked as well (I actually track alkalinity more than I do calcium).

(regarding nuisance green hair algae)


funlad3 said:


> ...it takes a LONG time to kill EVERY strand of algae in a tank. Why haven't we solved the problem of invasive species yet?)


Algae will grow whenever conditions permit (light+nitrate+phosphate, etc). Once one or more of those conditions is extremely limited or removed, it will eventually starve out. Typically this occurs as the tank matures.


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## funlad3

If there is one level I DON'T worry about, it is alkalinity. I hate to jinx myself by saying this, but my rock, sand and assorted other stuff fun keep the alkalinity at a constant value. If you asked what that value is, I couldn't tell you for the life of me. Everything looks and acts fine and the Monti is already showing new white growth along the edges! Hurray for ignorance!

As far as the Hair algae, It isn't really growing anymore... It's at a standstill that all of the populous is taking care of.

Hurray!

Also, I know I'm always saying Clownfish are cliché, but after browsing the web, I've decided I want a pair of either Grade B Picasso Clowns or a pair of Snowcasso clowns! Hmmm.... Will I get the pair that costs 1/4 as much? Most likely!

Here's the sellers page though; her name is Doni Marie and she's from South Carolina. 

http://store.donisreef.com/


She has the entire process of going from one pair of clowns to becoming a small scale breeder here!

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/livestock-breeding/32474-rearing-picasso-percula-clownfish.html


If you have a day or two to burn, this is a VERY awesome read. Beware though, you may just become addicted to these clowns, as I have.


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## whitemore55

Cong rates you my dear friend. For this finding every time should be careful. Then you will get any thing. But some days i am finding gelly fish which is american kind. When i can get it?


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## Betta man

funlad3 said:


> Thanks FF, I'll sadly skip the Gramma. I've also seen how large the fish can open it's mouth. It has the same type of jaw as a Large Mouthed Bass. Small to big very fast.
> 
> College Reefer, I'll hook up a skimmer collection bucket to the cup tomorrow. Again, I can't get the pump at a higher flow than it is already, so I'll need to clean it out. Sunday? My return pump is the same model (Rio2500) and it has a much higher flow...
> 
> As for chemical levels, there are only two tests that I trust. Salinity and Calcium. My specific gravity is at 1.023 according to the hydrometer. According to my Salifert calcium test kit, my calcium is somehow *more than 500 PPM*!!! All that I've added was some Purple Up! Any ideas as to where that's coming from? I sure don't have any. (My substrate is sand...) If you're one to trust FW Strips, my pH is at about 8.3, and hardness at the highest the test measures... Again, these are merely strips, but I'm going to get a SW master test kit. My nutrients are low, according to the few corals I have, (All are thriving) the dying algae, and those meritless paper strips.
> 
> My lowest flow is in that ridge along the back of my tank (Here http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_z5H72IAzetA/TS5qxwCgvfI/AAAAAAAAACM/a0um-cZkjxQ/s1600/Tunnel.JPG ). Otherwise, my flow circulates around the whole tank at an okay rate. Will I add powerheads? Yes. Do I need them yet? No.
> 
> Fish! As I mentioned earlier, I'll drop the RG, keep the LNHW, and keep the FFRF. Then, I'll add all of the awesome corals that make a reef a reef. If my nutrients are near zero, I may chance the kole tang. But that shouldn't be for maybe a year.
> 
> Thoughts on all of this?
> 
> (CollegeReefer, how's your build coming along? It's been over a month? Is the system filled yet?)


That's too bad. Royal Grammas are great! Nice tank. That's a great find! :razz:


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## funlad3

Thread revival! 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgDG52o5Buc


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## BettaFriend

Hey funlad3!

I got an error message from Youtube saying that,"This video contains content from EMI, who has blocked it in your country on copyright grounds.
Sorry about that." with the little *:/* face icon.


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## funlad3

This link should work:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5F5BsXx5b5U


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## BettaFriend

No "Hello friend!"? lol. The reef is looking AMAZING! What is the story behind the 90 gallon tank? I haven't been around much lol.


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## funlad3

Hello friend! Jeez, I've told you a million times to just email me! Regardless, on the 90:

I picked it up a week before Black Friday, used, for $100. The stand covers the corner-flo, and it's going to be sticking 4' off of the wall. It'll replace the 75, but on a different wall. More on that later. 

Update your thread! What's new there?


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## BettaFriend

funlad3 said:


> Hello friend! Jeez, I've told you a million times to just email me!


lol 

Thanks for the latest. I don't know if I told you, but I've moved. Really sad, had a super downsize. My Saltwater tank crashed because I couldn't maintain it at the other house. My 55 gallon blackwater South American Amazon Biotype tank had to be drained because I don't have any room for it at my house. Sad thing, the only fish I have now is my bettafish Tony, and my Jewel Cichlid, Joel. Real shame, I had tons of room before we moved. 

Didn't mean to hijack your thread, though. Sorry about that.


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## funlad3

Hijack? Never. Try to convince the parents to do an in wall tank. They look nice, and all of the junk gets jammed into a dry-walled off room behind it.


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## grogan

Wow Funlad. Your tanks has some serious baller pieces in it. I showed it to the guys at the shop and we were all impressed. Your 90g setup is interesting. I like the height and how you can remove all panels for viewing of components.


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## BettaFriend

funlad3 said:


> Hijack? Never. Try to convince the parents to do an in wall tank. They look nice, and all of the junk gets jammed into a dry-walled off room behind it.


I think my parents would disapprove lol.

Goodness, I just noticed that you are a moderator! Congrats!


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## funlad3

grogan said:


> Wow Funlad. Your tanks has some serious baller pieces in it. I showed it to the guys at the shop and we were all impressed. Your 90g setup is interesting. I like the height and how you can remove all panels for viewing of components.


Anything in particular you like? I'm going to try to ship corals in the future, and I beleive Alaska counts for overnight shipping, right? In the distant future, I wouldn't be against sending you guys some frags (When everything is large enough to not make a difference on the colony that is!)

If you guys have any questions on my design or livestock ID, just ask. 

Thanks Betta Friend! I might not be the most learned SW person here, but I can help out most of the time. :fun:


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## grogan

This could always be a possibility. I guess pm me a itemized list of your corals that you are considering selling and Ill ask. Good luck on expanding your operation and hopefully there could be some future business here.


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## funlad3

I'm taking down all of the rock work tomorrow and moving it all into the 90. I might leave one or two pieces for biological filtration, but otherwise, I'm just going to leave the corals clams in there for a few days so that any mini-cycle in the 90 doesn't harm anything. Regardless, here's the 75 in its final hours! 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIZsp8UUD0g


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## grogan

Looks great! Im stoked to see how you do your aqua scape in the 90.


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## funlad3

Just you wait...


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## funlad3

Here's the 75 gallon, which is doubling as frag tank for the next week or so: 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpkvh4XlB7E


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## grogan

hmmm salt...I guess this is cool lol. Looks good bud. That frag rack is SICK


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## funlad3

Thanks Grogan!


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