# Auto top off and water exchange idea



## R/CBOONE72 (Jan 14, 2011)

I am wondering if my idea will work. I am no expert at pluming or wiring but I have read the stuff and have done this and that with my plans to make it work. It is an auto top off unit, which I bought as a kit from aqua hub but I also have two tanks to top off and then I want to do bucketless water exchange system which I planned myself. Please tell me any flaws you see in my thinking, I expect a few. Lets start with plumbing, the easiest part, kind of. 

Bathroom sink cold water to water filtration unit---> water filtation to auto off solenoid-----> "y" connecter ----> saltwater holding tank and the two freshwater top off tanks. Ball valve on each line out. 
To exchange water I siphon old water outside----> use manual on/off switch to start premix saltwater pump up to display tank or sump----> manually stop switch when all levels return. I used this manual switch to help alleviate my electrical frustration. And I will feel more apt to do more frequent smaller changes with my premix saltwater and no lifting buckets up to my tank opening and moving lights an on and on.
The first solenoid will auto off in power out, or when any of the three floats in the top off tanks or SW trip. I will wire the three floats into one side of the power wire to this solenoid. 
MY FIRST PROBLEM I SEE. I cannot see how I will make sure the water resevoirs will stay full, im afraid the smaller top off tanks will fill up and trip my solenoid then when I need to have my premix saltwater there will hardly be enough. I was going to try to have the ball valves on each of the three lines adjust more or less water drip. The only other thing is to put a solenoid on each line and them guys are expensive. Also using ball valves, even though it makes it less automatic, when one resevoir is almost full I can just turn the valve to off on that line till the others catch up or trip the electric solenoid.

Next I will have a float on each of the two top off tanks by the pump so that if for some reason my water is off, when the water reaches a low point it will kill the pump and these floats will be wired in one side of each of the top off pumps. Also there will be a emergency float in the sump to prevent a pump stick on possibility also wired into each pump. All this is 120v because its not in the main display or in the sump and it is unlickly these "security" floats will be needed and the top off tank is A.) freshwater, less conductive and B.) will only be allowed on for short times so this is all low risk, well as I see it anyhow.
Now on to the actual main top off float, it will be wired through a relay to produce 12v that way if the water flows over it in a pump stuck scenario it will decrease the possible harm to tank. The main power panel for the top off pump will be connected to this so when this float is in its "OK" position then the top off pump can't work, if it sticks then the secondary float is wired to kill the pump directly. Each of my two display tanks will have each there own 12v system I believe, it's like an extra $20 to do so and yet agains simplifies the process rather then me trying to splice from one 12v system to make two.

I think I covered everything, I may be back in to edit stuff I missed. If you need to know something then let me know. I want the auto water exchange because the water filter unit is so slow and I dont want to lug buckets or take the time to mic water the day of the change. Also each water resivoir will have a small pump to curculate water.


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