# Water changes. how often?



## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

How often should I do water changes? Once a week? Every two weeks? Once a month? 

I have a 3 gallon tank with 3 neons, 1 small sterba cory and a cherry shrimp.


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## BV77 (Jan 22, 2005)

You will hear different opinions from people, so I can only say what I do. I do weekly 25% water changes on all my tanks. I can't remember the last time I had a sick fish. The thing to remember is REGULAR partial water changes. Set a schedule and stick with it. Tanks with a low bioload can go longer than a week, just keep it regular IMO


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Ok thanks. I got my tank up and running to cycle since last Wednesday. I cycled my tank for 2 days and added my fish. Tonight I did my 1st partial water change, topped my water and added 3 ml of Stress Zyme to the tank. All my fishies are doing well. Now if I only can get my cherry shrimp to come out more often instead of hiding in the cave all the time. LOL! I've got to get a moss ball - maybe that'll bring him out more.


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## grogan (Jan 23, 2011)

Like Bv77 said above every tank is different. But usually it is advised to do some sort of water change once a week. For example I do 50% every week on my planted tanks, 25% on the Dovii tank, short body redtail tank, and fresh water prawn tank.


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## Obsidian (May 20, 2007)

2 days is not a cycle. Unless you use a biological additive it will take 4-6 weeks to cycle a tank. Watch your tank and I would do changes every few days since it hasn't cycled yet. In a week or two you might start running into some problems. Go buy stability, that will solve the problem the fastest.


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## aMawds (Aug 29, 2012)

As obsidian said, that is not a cycle. You need to go do some research asap. That tank is already a bit overstocked, and you fully stocked it with a fresh cycle. Not a good idea at all. Additionally neon tetras are surprisingly sensitive fish. In my experience ammonia at levels of .25 can kill off an entire group of ten in the course of three days. Please go do some research on the nitrogen cycle. My best suggestion is what was already suggested above. Additionally, you need to be doing 25% water changes daily with temp matched water if you want all those fish to survive the cycle.


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## Ghost Knife (Mar 12, 2008)

I change about 15% of the water in my 125 every 3 weeks. I haven't had a disease or any other problem in about 2 years. My 20 gallon gets a 15-20% water change every 2 weeks and it's been good so far.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Stability is a buffer of sorts correct? Or I would assume you meant I need to buy a product called Aquasafe and or Easy Balance?


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## aMawds (Aug 29, 2012)

I have no experience personally with quick balance stuff so I'll let Obsidian answer that one. But a product I did use was Prime. It's a water conditioner, as well as an ammonia/Nitrite neutralizer. It turns ammonia into ammonium which is much less harmful to fish, still comes up on ammonia tests, and the same bacteria eat it so it doesn't impede the cycle. I had neons in a tank with a double dose of the stuff, and ammonia up to 2ppm. Very useful. Don't know how it neutralizes nitrites, but it claims it does and many many people use it with success. You have to dose it every two days though.


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## Obsidian (May 20, 2007)

Those would work as well- but no, I did mean Stability. 

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Stability.html


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

After talking to bro-in-law that I did a water change, he asked if I added a water conditioner/dechlorinator (AquaSafe Plus). Told him I didn't think I needed to. He told me to get it and add to the tank or the fish will die. So I went out and bought it.


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

Your brother is right. You definetly need to dechlorinate the water before you add it to the aquarium. Especially in such a small aquarium it will kill the fish if you don't


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

My bro-in-law upgraded to a 20 gallon tank. I'm going to ask him what's his plan for his old 10 gallon tank is. If he has no plans for it, I may ask to take it. He emptied it not too long ago during his move and moved his remaining fishes to the 20 gallon. If I do take it, will I need to clean the tank before starting it up? He had FW fishes in it.


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

It is always a good idea to clean previously owned tanks. Doesn't matter if FW or SW


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

OK now a silly question - what would be the proper way to clean a previously owned tank that was just emptied a few days ago?

Most likely I will need to buy a new filter system and heater. I'll def will want to go with the LED route for lighting (like the 20 gallon tank system I saw at Petsmart).

This is the lighting system I'm looking to get:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+23542&pcatid=23542&r=949


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

As long as the tank didn't home sick fish that died and that is the reason it is now empty I would just scrub the inside of the aquarium with a sponge and some water. You can also remove water stains and such from the outside just to make it better to look at.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Actually one fish did die and was left in the tank for God knows how long before they finally took it out. What would be the course of action in this case?


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## Maine_Fish (Apr 7, 2012)

Ice said:


> How often should I do water changes? Once a week? Every two weeks? Once a month?
> 
> I have a 3 gallon tank with 3 neons, 1 small sterba cory and a cherry shrimp.


As others have indicated on this thread, there are varying points of view regarding the amount and frequency of water changes. One of my local fish shops is owned by a guy who's been keeping fish for over 40 years. He's running about 150 tanks in his store, and claims he never does water changes...he just tops off the tanks to compensate for evaporation. His tanks are clean, and his fish are healthy. He has many large fish in his show tanks that are several years old. 

As a general rule, I do a weekly 25% water change with my tanks.

In my opinion, the frequency of water changes can vary, depending on the tank's bio-load and filtration system. For example, I have a 75 gallon tank that is waaaay overstocked; I religiously do weekly water changes on that tank (plus, I run extra filtration). A while back, I had a pair of dwarf Kribensis cichlids in a spacious 29 gallon tank...just topping off the tank as water evaporated seemed to do the trick there.

On a side note, based on the content of a few of your posts, it appears you may be new to fish keeping. First, let me say welcome to the hobby...it's fun, educational, and rewarding. Second, my humble word of advice is to take your time, and do your homework. Many amateur hobbyists start throwing fish into a new tank and quickly get discouraged and give up when their fish start dying. Unfortunately, this could be avoided in many cases with just a little knowledge about cycling a tank, pH, nitrates, nitrites, ammonia...and all that fun stuff. 

At the top of the General Freshwater section of this forum, there are a few "Sticky" threads geared toward the fundamentals of setting up a new tank. I'd encourage you to take a look at those...lots of good information there.

Have fun...and good luck!


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

Did the fish die of natural causes or did he die of an illness? If he did the latter I would bleach the tank. Just make sure to clean up the bleach thoroughly and to put the aquarium into sunlight for 24h after.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

BettaGuy said:


> Did the fish die of natural causes or did he die of an illness? If he did the latter I would bleach the tank. Just make sure to clean up the bleach thoroughly and to put the aquarium into sunlight for 24h after.


A good question. I don't know. LOL!


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## kcrunch (Aug 17, 2012)

I used bleach, to clean the 20 I picked up and I rinsed it out thoroughly. I then filled it and used dechlor to finalize my neutralize anything else


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

The sunlight I think somehow sterilizes the bleach


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## Obsidian (May 20, 2007)

Bleach is fine, just gotta rinse really well and let it dry completely. Then fill and let stand for a day. Then add dechlore at double dose. Go for your cycle from there.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Thanks guys.


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## Obsidian (May 20, 2007)

Oh and Betta- it's not necessarily the sunlight that does anything to the bleach, though since it speeds up evaporation it might help it diffuse out sooner. Bleach just doesn't have a lot of sticking power- it comes in strong and peters out in the end 

Then there is the whole sterilizes it piece. Bleach sterilizes things, the sun does not sterilize bleach.


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

I dunno, its just what I heard that if you use bleach you should put the things into the sunlight to remove the harmful effects that bleach has on fish.


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## lohachata (Jan 27, 2006)

completely false bg...the sun actually will act a a bleach...take 2 white sheets...wash and dry one in the house...wash the other in the house and hang outside in the sun to dry...the outside one will be whiter...and even smell better....


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

wow ok, so maybe what I read was that instead of using bleach you can just put the aquarium in the sun. Is that possible?


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Talked to bro-in-law and inquired what his plans for the 10 gallon tank. Looks like a got one coming my way at no cost. He is currently cleaning it with bleach. Apparently he knew what needed to be done. Getting the hood, and filter but told me all I need to get was a new heater and he will tell me what one to buy.


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## aMawds (Aug 29, 2012)

Cool! And just walk into a fish store and buy an adjustable heater that's rated at around 50 watts, as well as a thermometer. Wouldn't suggest the little sticker ones unless the tank is glass, and even then I don't know how accurate they are. Also, I would rinse everything out one last time and let it sit in the sun. Just in case he misses some bleach.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Yes, the tank is glass and he told me to buy the heater that you can set it to the exact temperature for the tank. Swears it works and never have to worry about fluxuations.

Of course I willl need to get a thermometer as well. There are so many out there but which kind is best?


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## aMawds (Aug 29, 2012)

They usually set in 3 degree or so increments, so not exactly the exact temperature. They also hold within a few degrees. Obviously not perfect, but also not important. And any mercury thermometer should work fine. At my fish store they have a floating type that includes a suction cup to hold it to the glass if you don't want it floating aimlessly in the tank, and they have a "standing" type, that's just the same thermometer filled with lead shot at the bottom during production. So it stands in the tank. I bought the floating type, and stuck it to the glass on the opposite side of the aquarium. It was like 3 bucks.


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## lohachata (Jan 27, 2006)

a good heater will cost you between $20-40...i would suggest a 75-100 watts...i recently picked up some new "aquatop" heaters that seem to work quite well and are reasonably priced...around $12-15 for a 100 watt.....
i do not buy aquarium thermometers anymore..haven't for over 30 years...i test with my fingers...but i do own a few now...they are digital cooking thermometers...
kind of like this one...

http://www.digitalthermometers.net/cdn_dt392_digital_thermometer.aspx

a little pricey but quick reading and very accurate.....i get mine from harbor freight for about $5.00...


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Nice tip! I'll look into that.


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## aMawds (Aug 29, 2012)

75 to 100 watts for a 3 gallon! =O In fact I just remembered it's a 3 gallon, and 50 watts is a bit much. Unless I'm forgetting what I have already


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

A bit of sad news - yesterday morning I found my cory dead at the bottom of my tank underneath the filter. My tank was also cloudy and I'm in the process of doing daily water changes (did 25% last night; 50% this afternoon during my lunch hour) until I head out and buy test strips and Ammonia treatment (tonight). 

I'm pretty sure the reason is that my ammonia levels are high because of 2 things. One being me adding too many fish at the same time and also possibly I'm overfeeding my fish.

The tank doesn't seem as cloudy now but I know I need to correct the problem. My neons and cherry shrimp all survived (so far).

Now let the slamming begin...
(rolls eyes)


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## lohachata (Jan 27, 2006)

stop feeding the fish...continue with water changes..25% daily...don't touch the filter..maintain temp at 78 degrees F...don't add any chemicals yet until you know for sure what is wrong...


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

yep, your fish will be fine without food for at least two weeks so don't think that you have to feed them. Getting the tank under controll is more important now. I would also do daily water changes and not tuch the filter but I'm basically repeating what lohas saying so I'll stop. . .


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

I went out and bought the ammonia test kit (Mardel) and ran a water test. Comes to find out it turned Stress level green (test strip gives me 5 different color levels - ideal, caution, stress, harmful, and toxic) Added Ammo Lock by API (about 1.5 ml). 

I will take your advice to refrain from feeding for 2 weeks and continue with the water changes. However, I did change the biofilter last night. I know, I shouldn't have done it but it's too late now  My water temps have been steady between 78 - 82 degrees so I know, I'm good there.

One thing I won't do at this time is run out and buy another fish no matter how much my son begs to get another cory. I told him we need to take care of the water condition first.

I talked to my bro-in-law tongith and we both talked in length on what I need to do and not do. He also told me the best way to feed my fish (I was overfeeding my fish which caused the ammonia to spike and adding way too mnay fish at the same time) He realized I meant well but was killing the fish with too much kindness (I can agree with that).

He also told me he would stop by and see my tank and offer more advice as well.

It's a lesson learned the hard way. I want to thank everyone for being patient with me and the valuable advice given. Thank you.


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

Whilst your fish can survive for two weeks without food I wouldn't recommend it unless absolutly necessary. I was kinda just stating it as a fact. I would check the water conditions again in one week and see what it is then. I also wouldn't rely on the test stripes to much but rather take the water into your fish store and get it checked there.


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## lohachata (Jan 27, 2006)

well...here's the deal....you're a dummy...just like everybody else when first starting in this hobby..we make mistakes along the way....we won't talk about mine..lol...some pay attention and make way fewer as they go along...in 2 days feed your fish lightly...do so twice a week for about 1 month...then you can start increasing feeding by 2 days a week..
i think that you will be fine...and you have your brother in law right there to help which will make things a bit easier...
something i always tell folks is to buy a set up that is big as you can afford..look for deals on craigslist..i picked up a 55 gallon tank,stand,hood,heater and filter for $85...
bigger tanks are much easier to work with than small tanks..they are more stable...

the very best of luck to you and your son...you're gonna be ok..
oh yeah...PM me your address in a couple of weeks ; i may have a couple of spare cories layin around..


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

I appreciate the generous offer lohachata and will get in touch with you in a couple of weeks.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

quick update. My brother -in-law stopped by tlast night to help check my water parameters. pH is around 7.7 which is fine, nitrate is perfect, ammonia level is around .75(light greenish)

He also told me to feed the fish once a day and continue with partial water changes until ammonia levels are gone. I suggested a better product called TLC Aquarium Optimizer instead of Aquasafe Plus.

Is it possible that excess food can leave a film on acrylic tank walls? Reason I'm asking is because it looks cloudy from the sides than from the front.


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

Food can leave an oily film on anything (usually the water's surface), but it sounds more like the water is a little cloudy and you only see it when you look the long way. Bacteria blooms to eat up the ammonia are common in "cycling" tanks. It doesn't hurt fish and usually goes away when the ammonia and nitrite do.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Okay, thanks.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Curious question - how long does it take for the ammonia levels to be completely gone? Wondering because I have been doing 25% water changes almost everyday. 

I'm thinking of switching to a better brand instead of AquaSafePlus to TLC and StressCoat. I'm definitely returning AmmoLock because I don't think it helps with the ammonia. (I used it once a week or so ago and haven't since then)

The worse case scenario for me is the real possibility of starting from scratch all over again by emptying the tank, rinsing the deco, gravel, tank in fresh water, rinse the filter (in the current tank but not in fresh water) and start over. Of course the fish & shrimp will have to be put in a small clean container bag until I'm ready to add them back in tank.


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

I don't think you need stresscoat, just something to dechlor. Your aquarium is pretty small so I don't know if you'll ever have it completly stable and cycled. Maybe there will always be a bit of amonia. If you keep up with the waterchanges the amonia will go away eventually.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

My brother-in-law just dropped off his old 10 gallon tank to my house tonight. Not sure if I'm ready to move up since I've already spent alot of money on the 3 gallon tank plus supplies and gravel. I want to try to get my little tank stable and clear. If I can't, I may go ahead with the 10 gallon and simply use the 3 gallon for a betta fish alone.

At least I know how to take care of the betta. Feed it 2-3 pellets a day, water changes once a week (I had one of those really small betta tanks then - kinda like a jar type) My last one lasted 1 year.


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

I would transfer them to the 10g right now. It is much easier to get a 10g stable than a 3g, plus your fish would be happier. Then you could get a betta for your son and he'd have a really nice fish to look at.


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## kcrunch (Aug 17, 2012)

Ghost Knife said:


> I change about 15% of the water in my 125 every 3 weeks. I haven't had a disease or any other problem in about 2 years. My 20 gallon gets a 15-20% water change every 2 weeks and it's been good so far.



I am planning to do the same 15-20 % every 3 weeks, my levels have been really good too


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Would the betta bother the cherry shrimp? I'd like to keep him in the 3 gallon if possible. Curious...


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

My betta would destroy cherry shrimp, but it depends on the betta. If you want to just have a betta and the shrimp would be a nice extra I would try one and see if the betta eats it. If you like shrimp more than bettas I wouldn't bother trying to buy the betta.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

I got to thinking about my ammonia levels and the tank still being a little cloudy. Although I have been doing daily 25% water changes I'm starting to wonder if my filter isn't pulling enough aeration or water flow thru my filter system and in my tank. Could this is a possibilty? This is the type of filter that came with my 3 gallon kit:

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753028&lmdn=Size

I'm thinking this filter is a POS and not doing it's job nor strong enough. 


So, I'm thinking of switching over to this better filter (and it's on sale!):

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3579+9821&pcatid=9821&r=431

Thoughts?


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## BettaGuy (May 6, 2012)

It's never a bad idea to have more filtration, just don't replace the filters. Add the other filter and let some time pass for bacteria to build up on it's filter pads. Keep up with the water changes and only take out the old filter once bacteria has build up on the new one. If you want to buy it from that site though they are out of stock.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

UPDATE!!

My Freshwater Master Test came in today. Ran all my water tests for pH, High pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. 

I am very pleased - no - I am so psyched (ROFL!!) to announce that my Ammonia is now at 0!!!!!!!!!!! Yay! My pH registered between 7.0 and 7.2, my High pH came out lighter than 7.4, and finally; Nitrite and Nitrate both read 0.


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## lohachata (Jan 27, 2006)

see...told ya so.....lol

like i always say...the more you mess the more mess you make.

glad to see it doing so well..


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Thank you. I was determined not to give up on my fish and was going to do everything I can to right the mess I've done. It was well worth it.


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## lohachata (Jan 27, 2006)

part of the learning process ice.....you are a bit older and not so full of yourself ; so you can take direction better.....and calmer...therefore you don't give up so easily and achieve success a bit more easily...
welcome to the wonderful world of fishes..


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## aMawds (Aug 29, 2012)

lohachata said:


> part of the learning process ice.....you are a bit older and not so full of yourself ; so you can take direction better.....and calmer...therefore you don't give up so easily and achieve success a bit more easily...
> welcome to the wonderful world of fishes..


I take that offensively! Haha kidding. I'm probably one of the youngest actively using this forum. I learned all my lessons quickly. I was on a budget at one point too so adding random chemicals wasn't really economical. I know I'm not nearly done learning, but I have two happy tanks full of fish so I guess I did something right!

But is he really done cycling with that nitrate level of 0? Personally I would let the tank be for a couple days, without changing the feeding cycle you're on now, and take some samples then. The way I see it, changing water every day is one of the only ways to save fish when things start going downhill fast like that, but it's sort of like artificially lowering the bioload. Now you need to slowly increase it by spacing out water changes and testing the water. Don't go adding more fish quite yet  Don't take this as fact of course, but it makes sense and when I was having problems cycling the first time around, that's what seemed to be happening.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Heh - not planning on adding more fish in a 3 gallon tank. My neons have been one of the toughest fish I've had and they've stuck with me since I bought this tank for my son.

And yes - I'm still learning and have alot more to learn about freshwater keeping.


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## lohachata (Jan 27, 2006)

the nitrification process is only as complicated as you make it...actually , i don't even know where test levels should be except for ammonia and nitrite being zero......i don't cycle like most folks...no time and space....and i don't test....don't even own a kit...but i am very familiar with my processes....i have been in the learning process for a long time....and am still learning...
with all readings being at zero i would take it as the cycle is mostly complete and there is really not enough bioload to elevate the nitrate level a whole lot...but it will slowly climb as one changes from daily to weekly water changes...
i will tell you what i think and give you my opinions ; but that doesn't mean you have to do as i say....what works for me , may not work for everybody...


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## aMawds (Aug 29, 2012)

lohachata said:


> the nitrification process is only as complicated as you make it...actually , i don't even know where test levels should be except for ammonia and nitrite being zero......i don't cycle like most folks...no time and space....and i don't test....don't even own a kit...but i am very familiar with my processes....i have been in the learning process for a long time....and am still learning...
> with all readings being at zero i would take it as the cycle is mostly complete and there is really not enough bioload to elevate the nitrate level a whole lot...but it will slowly climb as one changes from daily to weekly water changes...
> i will tell you what i think and give you my opinions ; but that doesn't mean you have to do as i say....what works for me , may not work for everybody...


Old and wise you are Loha. I'll definitely keep that in mind. I like having the kit just so I can test if I see weird things happening. Loving my fish though. Got offered a free 18 gallon tall by a high school science teacher. Need to pick it up but I still have no idea what I'm going to do with it haha


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

I just put tanks out in the sun so you don't breathe bleach fumes while it evaporates. Bleach doesn't leave a residue, when the water is gone, so is the bleach, but rinse and dechlor work, too.


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