# 75 on 55 stand.



## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

Ok, I got 2 75s and 2 55s in the garage. Last night I picked 2 iron stands that each will hold 2 55s. Can I put a 75 on top instead of a 55 if I put a board under the tank? I think you can cantilever up to 1/5 of anything off each side of a support and 3" on each side (front and back) is only 1/6 of the width (18") sticking out from the 12" stand. 

How thick/what kind of board do I need? Would 3/8" plywood be enough?


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## SueM (Jan 23, 2004)

No, 3/8 ply would bend way to easy. I use a minimum of a 2/4


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

2/4 =1/2 " or a 2" by 4"? I once had a used 55 than came on a 30 stand with 3 2" x 4" attached to the top. 

Even if I have to build it a shelf, its easier and less space than making a wood stand.


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## SueM (Jan 23, 2004)

I'm sorry, I should have said 2 by 4 . Here 2 by 4's are fairly cheap, so I make all mine with them.


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

thanks for the response.


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## jones57742 (Sep 8, 2007)

emc7 said:


> Ok, I got 2 75s and 2 55s in the garage. Last night I picked 2 iron stands that each will hold 2 55s. Can I put a 75 on top instead of a 55 if I put a board under the tank? I think you can cantilever up to 1/5 of anything off each side of a support and 3" on each side (front and back) is only 1/6 of the width (18") sticking out from the 12" stand.
> 
> How thick/what kind of board do I need? Would 3/8" plywood be enough?


em: Please excuse me but due to the timeout is missed this thread.

In order to make sure I got the basics down your 55G stand is fabricated for a 48 x 13 x 20 tank and your 75G tank is 48 x 18 x 20 and hence the 75G will overhang the rim of the 55G stand 2.5" in the front and rear and this photograph approximately represents *your stand*?
(Please note that the above stated dimensions appear to differ from your description.)

Several Items:

*One*

Typical unlaminated or unvarnished construction lumber and water do not mix very well.

Should you decide to try this I believe that a treated lumber or stained and varnished lumber would be appropriate.


*Two*

As I am certain that you are aware the siliceous glass of which our tanks are fabricated is an amorphous solid and hence; flows with time and possesses virtually el zippo tensile or flexural strength.

As such the 1/5 cantilevering concept to which you referred in not applicable.


*Three*

As you are considering bracing the ends of the tank I believe that bracing the quarter points would also be appropriate.


*Four*

My main concern with you trying this is the stability of the stand and tank with an oversize tank.

The example would pushing on the top of a 55G tank resting on the stand.

Significant force would be required for the stand and tank to "topple over".

Pushing on the top of a 75G tank resting on the stand would require significantly less force for the the stand and tank to "topple over".

TR


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## aspects (Feb 1, 2009)

basically what jones is saying is... no


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

I think it would work..if I make a stronge uniform base (maybe 2 2 x 10's with a piece to fit inside the frame and keep it from moving. 

yes the stard is similar to the pic, there is one crosspiece in the center and scrolls in the corners which would keep me from putting a 75 on the bottom. 

I'm not married to the idea. I wanted 1 double-decker stand for the 55s, and ended up with two for the price. If I use it for 55s, I could get one more tank in. Or I could take the second one to the club auction.


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## jones57742 (Sep 8, 2007)

emc7 said:


> I think it would work..if I make a stronge uniform base (maybe 2 2 x 10's with a piece to fit inside the frame and keep it from moving.
> 
> yes the stard is similar to the pic, there is one crosspiece in the center and scrolls in the corners which would keep me from putting a 75 on the bottom.


em:

Just another thought here as you are getting into some fabrication and the stand is similar to my visualization.

Somehow, and I do not know what this somehow is, is to secure the legs to a minimal thickness plywood which extends slightly beyond the extent of the downward projection of the tank footprint.

This would minimize the probability of the "toppling effect".

TR

BTW: this plywood would also decrease the indentation in the carpet from the feet of the stand.


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

Now thats beyond what I'm willing to do. One build is enough, if I do 2, i might as well build a stand. Sure it would be top-heavy. But with a full 75 & 55 on it, I don't think its going anywhere. I mean thats 1000 lbs of downward force, evenly distrubuted.


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## COM (Mar 15, 2008)

Placing boards (2x4 or plywood) under a tank stand is not an uncommon practice.

In general, I would not suggest placing a tank on a stand that is significantly smaller than intended/designed for, even with the very logical modifications mentioned. With modern manufacturing, so many things are made to the lowest quality standards possible. The iron in the stand made in China may be of such low grade that it could easily buckle with just a few extra pounds. In this era of cheap crap, better to buy a product that is at least warrantied to do the job at a minimal level of efficacy.

If you're building your own stand out of 2x4s, I wouldn't worry about water treatment, pressure treatment, or lamination. People have made 2x4 stands for years, and a little splash of water here or there won't cause any degradation. If you are worried, slap on some polyurethane.


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## aspects (Feb 1, 2009)

maybe you should build a stand. 2x4 is pretty cheap, and for a 75g stand, you wouldnt need much material at all. definitely better then putting a 75 on a 55 stand


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## Obsidian (May 20, 2007)

It's not something that I would do, personally. That is mostly because I am anxious as hell on a good day and I would constantly worry about it failing. I also feel that since you have 2 75's that you would do well to have a double-decker stand for them. It would be easy to do if you have the right tools. If yo do go this route keep one major thing in mind: Use screws and bolts, not nails, wherever possible


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