# making my own lighting fixture



## im_a_clownfish (Sep 19, 2005)

Hi All!
I am setting up a new tank and and planning to sooner or later start growing corals. Lights to grow liverock are expensive enough, but lights for growing coral are insanely expensive!

I am pretty handy with woodworking, and have made a beautiful stand for my new 65G tank, and am also planning to make a trim piece cover for the top of the tank.

I was thinking of incorporating a bunch of fixtures into the wood tank cover I am making, as it seems much more economical to get a 4 light fixture from home depot and mount it in the wood, than to buy a fixture.

The only thing is, I don't believe normal fixtures will support very high intensity fluorescent tubes like the ones used in fish tank lighting. I imaging that the normal output (NO) bulbs only go up to 30-40 watts, and not the 90 watt versions in the ones specially made for tanks?

I know I need 4-6 watts per gallon, which is way more than what four 30-40 watt bulbs will provide. (30x4= 120 which is not enough for corals in my 65g tank right?) I think I need at least 260w to grow the corals (65x4=260).

Anybody know if you can get fixtures that will support 60-90watt bulbs from home depot or electrical stores? That dont cost an arm and a leg like aquarium lighting. The high output bulbs are easy to find - I just need fixtures/ballasts.



And has anyone done this before, or am I not taking something into consideration when I think it will be a lot cheaper. I dont mind putting the time into it, and I am great with wood and electrical stuff....

Suggestions? Tips? Feedback?

Thanks!


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## Fishfirst (Jan 24, 2005)

interesting problem, but your answer is usually not in the lighting section of home depot unfortunately. There is however a website that tells you how to put together some cheap metal halides... although sometimes I wonder if its more trouble than what its worth. I would definately think of getting a retrofit kit or buying the parts seperately... you wouldn't need a fixture because you would be making it yourself... which is perfectly fine, I did it on my 125 with a VHO retrofit kit and a few peices of wood... looks ghetto but works just fine.


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

380 watts isn't hard to do over a 65 gallon tank (36 inches right?). You will have to understand it will not be much cheaper, if any than purchasing a fixture if you go PC. Not sure about MH as I have no experience with them. Either way, start with a good ballast. I CANNOT stress that enough. Cheap ballast means inefficient lighting that may not last long. Spen a few extra dollars and get a Workhorse ballast or 2. Well worth the money a priced to sell. 4x96 would be fine. If you are descent with wood by a half sheet of MDF (should run less than $40.00.) This will give you more than enough wood in case you mess up on a cut. DO NOT HAVE THE GUY @ LOWES OR HD cut it. They are not very satisfying IME. Some wood glue, a few nails and some piano hinges will also be needed. Along with some wire caps, and pc endcaps and a few screws. Just look up DIY aquarium hood and many designs will pop up. Be sure to get the right measurements before starting. You will have to take into account height over the tank and room for a lip to set the hood on. Not hard but can be a hassle if you are not into wood. Raingutter reflectors are a cheap alternative. If you want the best, just go to http://www.ahsupply and get their 4x96 watt bright kit. Comes with everything you need but tools and the hood itself. Their reflectors are worth the money alone.


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## Guest (Jan 29, 2006)

I am building myself a similar hood with melamine. I wouldn't go with MDF for 2 reasons : It's really a sponge and will inflate in no time if exposed to water, AND it's not so good with screws, specially small ones. MDF is basically saw dust with glue. 

As for the lighting, Simpte is ABSOLUTELY right about the ballast and please follow his/her advice. Go for premium quality ballast. Here's why.

- Provides better current and a slow start = longer life for your bulbs
- Current is more constant = less flicker = less stressed fish
- Produce less heat

What you spend on your premium ballast will be right back in your pockets within 2 years just on tube replacement reduction. The best unit you can buy has to be Ice Cap ballast 660. It will provide you with ample power to supply for your 4 VHO tubes. 

Check the Ice Cap web site and read reviews on their products. That should convince you if I haven't.

Good luck with your project.

Sponge
PS : Don't forget to plan for a cooling fan on your hood. A 4" computer fan + a lil' 12V transformer will do the trick and keep things cool. Dirt cheap.


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## Fishfirst (Jan 24, 2005)

I also would recomend the ice cap brand VHO's or PC's or MH's. I am very pleased with my VHO's. HD lighting will not work as it is not a complete spectrum lighting, most corals need this.


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