# DYI... No more water changes



## AndrewH (Mar 17, 2005)

Here's the idea...

My idea would be base off a RO filtering system, sort of.

The cheapest RO system I've found on the net is $150 with 5 stage filtering (@ Lowe's Home Improvement). After reading the purpose of each step, I think, for a planted tank at least, you really only need 2 filters and no RO element. One for large sediments and one for the chlorine (maybe even have 2 for chlorine just to be sure, it's only $25 extra). This would leave the trace element in the water for the plants/fish.

You would do away with the sump all together and have the outlet after the filters dumping into a small container filled with bio balls above the tank (say mounted in the hood/canopy), then draining directly into the tank. That way your still getting good bacteria (since you are not doing a complete RO on the water, the city water should still have nitrates for the bacteria). Then you would just have a gravity drain to a sink or out a window. 

Simply put a ball valve before the filters to control how much water is coming in and out of the tank. If the water is cut off, the gravity drain will stop. I would still have a filter or two in place (running all the time, but set at it's lowest/slowest setting) for a backup, which would also keep good bacteria in place.

This would cost about $50-$75 to build and your fish and plants would have fresh clean water all the time. And the big advantage NO MORE WATER CHANGES (still have to do vacuums often).

What does everyone think, will it work?


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

Any filter needs cleaning periodically, usually by back flushing, but I like the idea of continous water changes. I have been thinking about a system, not because of central filtration, but because I could change water in 20 tanks at once.


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## AndrewH (Mar 17, 2005)

The inline filters would be replaced every 6-12 months and the back-of-tank filter (or sump style) would still need to be cleaned as usual, but maybe less often.

I think with some 1/4" tubing and some filters it'll work great.


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

You don't need any special water for planted tanks.


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## AndrewH (Mar 17, 2005)

The "planted tank" reference above was referring to the trace elements in the tap water which would need to be added back if removed (magnesium for example). The RO element would remove these if used, which would potentially be good for fish only tanks and somewhat necessary for plant & fish thanks. <--- which I could be wrong

By no means am I an expert on plants or fish (actually about to try plants for the first time soon), so any insight you could provide would really help me develop the idea.


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## AndrewH (Mar 17, 2005)

Ok after thinking about the idea a little more and getting some input from some other gays/gals (thanks Wonderboy and Dylema), I worked out the flow rate. Basically, you match the flow rate to the equivalent of your normal 20-25% weekly water change. So on a 100-gallon tank, the flow would be about 3 gallons per day or 1/8 gallon per hour. You would still be using the same about of water as you are currently using in your weekly water changes, but it would happen all the time instead of all at once. Plus it would save you some time over the time spent on wwc (weekly water changes). You would still want to do a gravel vac every so often, which would also give you a change to exchange a little more water, but I think in the long run this idea will be better for the tank inhabitants and the fishkeepers.

Additional ideas for the system... I would have a check valve after the filters to prevent a siphon (which may not be necessary if you have the inlet in the power filter or near the top of the water level). And have a float switch in place to turn off the water supply if the drain gets clogged and to turn on the power filters (or whatever backup filtering system you have in place).

P.S.

I created a Microsoft Excel spreadsheet that will calculate the flow rate based off your tank size and water change percentage.


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## Anonymous (Jan 15, 2005)

I've built several different variations on this theme, and there are very easy, and relatively cheap, ways to do it. First off, instead of using a RO frame which can be overly pricey for this limited use, go with the whole house filters from the hardware stores. You can pick these up for about $30 each from hardware or department stores. Plumb the filter bodies, in this case 2 (one for sediment and one for carbon), into the water supply. After the filters, plumb in equipment that is normally used for micro irrigation for gardens. This would include a pressure reducer, a 1/2 inch header line depending on how many tanks are being plumbed to, a quarter inch feed line, and a drip emitter. Drip emitters are normally sold with a rated gallons per hour, but there are adjustable models out there. As for drains, there are also several ways of doing that depending on the stock in the tanks. In the case of a planted tank where you're going to be looking for consistent values, anything that directs the overflow of water will be fine.

If you are plumbing for breeding tanks, where larger partials are more preferable, use siphon overflows which you'll have to make yourself. I'll try to get pics of mine up later if anyone is interested. If you want to get really fancy, there is an upgrade that I've only recently designed and haven't even implemented on my tanks yet. Instead of using ball valves to control the drains, use solenoid valves normally used for automatic lawn sprinklers. These are normally closed till a programmable timer opens them. The timers on the market can normally be set to do changes every 24, 48, 72 hours, or weekly. In the case of using the programmable timer, skip using drip emitters all together, and go with a float valve instead. That will prevent the water from overflowing because of faulty timing or operator error.

This method also allows for treatment of the used water by using a reservoir to add salt, peat, trace elements, or anything else you may want to add or remove. I use 35 gallon feed barrels as a reservoir. In the bottom of the reservoir there is a 400 gph submersible pump. I don't have the timer idea implemented yet, but have a hose ran from the pump to a homemade PVC "J" tube with a ball valve. I simply hang this on the tank wall and open the ball valve to fill tanks. Once the timer is implemented, this will all be plumbed with PVC, and instead of drilling new holes for the float valves, "J" tubes will be ran to each tank. I'll simply be using adjustable float valves so the float doesn't take up too much room in the tank and drilling a bit lower into the PVC to thread the valve in place.

Hope this helps with your idea and feel free to ask any questions about any other adaptations you may have. Like I said earlier, I've built several different variations of this system to maintain different types of stock.

I almost forgot to add that the whole house water filters make excellent filters for central systems. I've been using them for years. On my current system, I have one plumbed inline with my fluidized bed. Even though it only filters 1/8th of the volume an hour, the tanks stay spotless. As an added bonus, the cartridges can be cleaned and re-used if carefully done.

Later,

Larry Vires


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## AndrewH (Mar 17, 2005)

Wow, thanks for all your input. I really appreciate you taking the time to type all this up for me and anyone else reading along.

Actually, I've been developing the idea on some other forums and came to the same conclusion of under sink style water filters (no RO/DI unit). I only plan on doing this setup for my 90 gallon community tank (I don't breed or anything like that). Home Depot has the filter housings for $16.99 each and the elements are $10 for 2 (or something like that), and will filter the water perfectly for what I'm wanting to do. And like you said, these types of filters are great for all kinds of applications (fresh incoming water, replace the power filters, etc.)

I wasn't exactly sure what I was going to use to get the flow down were I need it (in the 1/8 gallon per hour range, instead of the the 62 psi from the water company). So thanks for the equipment list.

Yeah, I have an overflow box which came with the 90 gallon (the tank was bought used and the previous owner gave me some free equipment he wasn't going to need anymore). I plan on running the two drain lines (3/4" to 1" diameter, I'm not exactly sure which) to my nearest sink drain as a constant drainage system (I'm going to use 2 so if there is ever a clog in one the incoming water has somewhere to go instead of overflowing the tank). With the little amount of water exchanging, the large drain size and having 2 drains I think there is enough coverage for now to keep the tank from overflowing, plus when I'm not going to be around the tank for a while, say when I'm on vacation, I'll turn off the system and just use hang-on-the-tank power filters until I get back or maybe I'll build a sump.

I've seen some small float switches made specifically for fish tank systems like this, which I plan on mounting in the tank (they're pretty small and easy to hide). I plan on also attaching a microswitch (or whatever I find which will work) so the float switch will turn on the power to the hang-on-the-tank power filters if the water supply is turned off by the float switch (which in turn would also turn them back off if the water supply was started back up again). Using the gravity drain system, the tank can only drain as low as the top of the in tank overflow box. The main problem I'll have to deal with is preventing the tank from overflowing due to a drainage stop up/failure and how to filter the tank until I get it working properly again.

I had planned on using a sump style system (to increase the total water volume, give me a place to have the heaters, power filters, etc. to get them out of the tank, and to have a place for treatments etc. like you described), but I think if I simply have the incoming water exit into the back of one of the power filters (or all of them), and the drain running all the time, I'll be good to go without having to find space to store and build a sump.

From my understanding of your system(s) you only open the ball valve when you need water, not have it running all the time, right?

I would love to see pictures if you get the chance.

Again thanks for taking your time to help me with the ideas and sharing all your experience.


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## Anonymous (Jan 15, 2005)

I've been working on an article for my website on this system for some time, but computer problems have limited my ability to upload the remainder. You are correct that the ball valves are only opened when doing a water change. I breed plecos, and the most effective way of triggering a spawn is by a sudden change in chemical and physical parameters of the system. As a result, the ball valves allow me to control when and if water changes are done. The reservoirs allow me to alter the chemical parameters and have a bulk of water prepped and ready to go.

Larry Vires


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## AndrewH (Mar 17, 2005)

Oh I see. I won't need to do anything special like that.

Sounds like a really nice system you got going. Do you have any pictures?


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## JamesB (Sep 6, 2006)

I'm assuming that one of the filters available from Home Depot or Lowes that you all are referring to has dechlorination media... About how long does one of these filter elements last in terms of gallons? Has anyone cooked up a way to maintain levels of aquarium salt and the like in a flowing system instead of using reserviors?


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## AndrewH (Mar 17, 2005)

The packages state 3-6 months at full capacity (which I'm not exact sure what that would be), but since I'm only going to be flowing 3 gallons per day, it should last a lot longer. Plus the fact that I will have a pre filter in front of it and using 2 "dechlorinating" filters. (Just so you know I have a water well at my house, so my system will be a huge overkill, but I plan to make it usuable for my city water incase I have to convert over later).

My application is for a freshwater tank with no salt. Now I am working on a system for the macro/micro elements for the plants, but don't think it'll be a big problem.


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