# Fiirst timer help



## Drift_King (Jan 18, 2005)

I was wondering if any1 would be nice enough to help me with some breeder questions
Ijust want to kno basics like tank size neede (plzz use dimensions not gallons, im Australian sorri)
water parameters and temp
and basically anything else i need to know.....ive been reaserching for a while but like more than 1 opinion thanx heaps
:mrgreen:


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## VWs and Fish (Jan 24, 2005)

Don't be sorry your Australian...be damn proud of it.

Black Betta should chime in on this one.

I know that you need a bigger tank, some hiding spots, clean water, warmer water, patience, and some experience. I've never spawned any Betta's before, but I'm very interested in it. I plan on doing it once I learn to take car of several betta's.

BTW: I'll be in the land down under in March...I'm obsessed with Australia.


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## Frop (Jan 20, 2005)

VW, 
Dont worry, I need to use Dimensions instead of the Gallons, Miles etc.. lol, 

we have the same system here in Canada as you do in Australia, except we dive on the opposite side of the roads as you, :mrgreen: 




Sorry for the off topic,

Back to the question........


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## thatsfishy (Jan 18, 2005)

*Re: First timer help*

First let me say that I applaud you for doing your homework before you venture out and try to breed bettas, because as you may have found out already, it is not as easy as breeding livebrearers. The fry are much smaller and don't do well on crushed flakes like guppies for example, so having live fry foods like vinegar eels (VE), Microworms (MW), and newly hatched Baby Brine Shrimp (BBS) is essential.

As far as for a basic setup, a 10g tank (40L) filled only 1/4 w/water or a plastic storage container that can hold at least 3g (12L) of water will do. (Sorry, no dimensions, hopefully the L conversion will do. As a rule of thumb, the more surface area, the better, rather then depth.)










Next, you need a 25W-50W heater (submersible are best) to keep the temperature at a constant 80F (~27C). Keep the tank/container covered tightly so humidity can built up above the water line, which helps to keep the male's bubblenest together. A filter is optional during spawning, but many breeders add a small seasoned sponge filter to the tank. No hang-on-back type filters are used as they will trap the fry in the filter. 










Other water params are not so important, as your bettas should be used to your tap water already and will spawn in a variety of water. However, adding some Indian Almond Leave or Black Water Extract seem to have a positive effect on their mating drive. The water itself should be conditioned and free of chlorine/chloramine and aged for at least 24 hrs. Adding about 1/2 tsp/g (1/2 tsp/4L) of Aquarium salt helps to prevent velvet on the fry. I also add about 1 drop/g (1 drop/4L) Methylene Blue to my spawn tank to prevent egg fungus in case the male isn't the best dad in the world, but that's a personal preference and not mandatory.

The tank set-up itself should be bare (no substrate), but hiding places should be provided via live plants (Java Moss, Riccia, etc.) or silk plants (no plastic, they can be very rigid and injure the spawning pair). Some people add caves or similar ornamental type hiding places, but I personally don't care for it, anything hard in the tank can add to the fish getting injured.

Other then that, put the spawn setup in an area with not too much foot traffic so the pair doesn't get disturbed too often. If you opt for a plastic bin instead of a tank with light hood, put a desk lamp nearby (or bright night light) at night so that the male can see the eggs/fry at night and can take proper care of them. Once the fry are free swimming and the male is removed from the tank you can turn the light off at night.

Anything else, well ... don't be too squeemish. Bettas can be very rough while mating and torn fins are to be expected. Let nature do its course and don't separate them prematurely unless you really think one of the fish is going to get killed. Because every time you put the female back into protection, the spawning sequence gets interrupted and they have to start over. Which means it takes longer for them to actually get to the wrapping part and the risk for one or both getting beat up worse is even greater.

Hope that helps some. If you have any additional questions, just ask. 

PS: Spawn bin picture is from a spawn article from the CNYBC library: http://www.cnybc.org/library/breeding_hm_and_sd.htm which may have some additional spawn info for beginners and advanced breeders alike. Feel free to take a look.


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## VWs and Fish (Jan 24, 2005)

Frop @ January 27th 2005 said:


> VW,
> Dont worry, I need to use Dimensions instead of the Gallons, Miles etc.. lol,
> 
> we have the same system here in Canada as you do in Australia, except we dive on the opposite side of the roads as you, :mrgreen:


Arg...I'm not Australian...born and raised in Seattle, Washington.


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

Nice post TF. Only thin I would add is condition the parents will help your spawn along very well. Most don't feed the dad once hes in the spawntank. A healthy, well fed dad before can reduce the chance of dad snacking on his young. A well fed female will produce more eggs.


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## Drift_King (Jan 18, 2005)

Hey guys just wanted to say thanks for all the help, tf your post was extremely helpful and yes the gallon to litres conversion was just fine thanks.
hey vw if your going to austaralia well then Sydneys west is the best hahahah probably not for a tourist though hahahaha have fun everyone.


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## anasfire23 (Jan 19, 2005)

Just a tip, be sure you deffinitly have a female. I recently bought what i believed to be a female fish and put 'her' and my male in to spawn and found him almost dead the next morning with tattered fins and sores. Turns out that 'she' was an immature male. Sometimes I suppose it is hard to tell with the short finned variaties.


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