# Refugium question



## vvolfe1 (Oct 9, 2006)

I know I'm new to this and all but after reading post after post on these, what size is correcet for say a 50 gal tank? I just ordered a 45 gal corner bow front and was wondering what size to use? Or, is bigger better? is there a point where a larger size does nothing more for you?
Had my eye on 120 tank but chances are I might be moving in a year or so and a corner tank will fit anywhere.


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## Reefneck (Oct 15, 2005)

a 10G sump works fine for 55G's and under. I use a 20G Long on my 75G tanks.


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## mr.dark-saint (Aug 16, 2005)

It all depends on the stand's openings. If you can't place it under you'll have to rig it "Shotgun" (which is kind a cool making a refu with mangrove spikes and pendulum light). So if a 20 gallon fit's cool (not that you'll use all 20 gallons).


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## Fishfirst (Jan 24, 2005)

the bigger the better


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## vvolfe1 (Oct 9, 2006)

hey thanks for the responses. I think I'll start making one next week. As for the stand I'll make that. I have a wood shop that hardly gets used anymore. 
I can't see spending the amount people want for new stands when I can make a better one for a quarter the price.


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## mr.dark-saint (Aug 16, 2005)

vvolfe1 said:


> I have a wood shop that hardly gets used anymore.
> 
> 
> > Too bad you're not in my neck of the woods 'cos I have a job for yous.


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

Does length matter in a refugium or is it more totoal volume? I cant fit a 20 long under my 75 but I might be able to wiggle a 20 high under there. I know the 10 gallon fits.


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## joe kool (Jan 24, 2005)

Damon said:


> Does length matter in a refugium or is it more totoal volume? I cant fit a 20 long under my 75 but I might be able to wiggle a 20 high under there. I know the 10 gallon fits.


I'm sure the 20L was used becouse it is "longer" and allows for a bigger "refug" area between the baffels. A high tank wouldn't be as useful as it would have less "bottom" area for your "reef mud" or whatever sandy type subsrate you chose to use and not as much surface area to allow for gas exchange. I'm sure SW tanks are generally the same as FW in the fact that teh longer/wider tanks are better at keeping water conditions and parameters good than tall narrow tanks. Yes tank demensions will affect how well the tank "takes care of it's self" and how frequent you'll need to do water changes and tank maintenance.


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

I was thinking along those same lines but the purpose of my sump/refugium is 50% refuge mainly for mangroves and 50% water volume. I keep a 3 inch dsb in the 75 so I really want more water volume vs denitrification in the refugium. I'll add the mangroves there but volume is my main concern.


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## mr.dark-saint (Aug 16, 2005)

Why not have some glass or acrylic cut and fab it in the stand. Might not be able to take it out but it'll be wall to wall fill.


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

Thats an option be assured. I was hoping to make use of one of the many tanks I have laying around taking up space.


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## jasno999 (Oct 16, 2006)

I agree with the others. The bigger the better but as we all know you are limited typically to the space under the tank. It is always great to have huge sumps and huge fuges. Get the biggest you can fit that still allows you good access and ease of use. Anyhting is better than nothing in my opinion.


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## vvolfe1 (Oct 9, 2006)

Thanks for the replies much appreciated. I do have another question on them though too I have not found on the web. What are the best plants to put in them and what do they do specifically that others due not? If I'm correct Cheato, and mangroves are the more popular but why? thanks again.


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## Fishfirst (Jan 24, 2005)

mangroves are slow growers... not much good in the uptake of nitrates... as for why the mangroves are popular I think its more due to how they look than how they function

Cheato and caulerpa are the best two macro algaes that would kick nitrates down to where they are supposed to be. Cheato being my first pick because it can't go sexual.


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

I'd agree with the cheato, the caulerpa. Mangroves are slow growers but don't react to bad conditions should something arise. They are one of the most tolerant semi-aquatic species available being able to withstand freshwater or saltwater. Once the cheato is growing nicely and the tank has matured for 6-8 months, a cpl of mangrove pods wouldn't hurt at all. But for serious NO3 reduction, go with the macro algaes.


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## vvolfe1 (Oct 9, 2006)

Thanks for the replies. I do have a few more questions. I've noticed a couple different styles of sumps. 1. Water flow comes from tank to skimmer area then to bubble to refuge to return. 2.. has from tank to skimmer area to bubble trap to return and on the otherside has a refuge going to return. I understand the purpose of both but can not find anywhere where it says about the water flow threw the refuge. 
Say I have a fuge and put cheato in it is there an ideal flow rate I should be trying to obtain?
Next question is since I'm still researching and making lists of what I'd really like to have I came acrossed _mandarins. What I have read is that they can be in 30+ gal tanks and are peaceful but they are difficult to keep. Why are they difficult ? wont the refuge help them out with copods for food? Also i noticed green mandrins and spotted ones, is one kind easier to take care of than the other?_


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## TheOldSalt (Jan 28, 2005)

Green ones have been spawned much more commonly than spotted ones, if that gives you any clue. 

Mandarins are very slow, plodding little fish which need to have a lot of food handy if they're to have any hope of getting enough. It usually takes about 40 pounds of live rock to support one, although if your well-matured and high-producing 'fuge is really cranking you can get by with less. Most folks should let their tanks age about a year before trying a mandarin, and even then only if it's obvious that there is enough food. They aren't renowned for eating things that you could otherwise easily feed them. They are also very territorial, although you'd hardly notice


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