# Auto drip water change system



## ron v

Red, let's continue our discussion in this new thread! My tap water is just about perfect for the fish I plan to concentrate on. PH- 6.8 with low GH and KH so I don't need to do much with the water. For some of the more delicate Apisto's it could be a little more acid. For these I will probably add oak leaves/ peat moss to each tank... My plan is to have a vat mounted above the rack of aquariums that will fill automatically using a fill valve similar to the gadget in the tank on your toilet at home. PVC pipe attached to a bulkhead in the bottom of the vat will feed a series of drip valves at each tank. This system will serve twelve 20 long aquariums on two different racks. All are drilled in the bottom. All twelve of these tanks are in operation now and contain fish. The drain system is in place and operating. The standpipes in each aquarium drain to a 10 gal tank that is sitting below the racks that in turn drains to a sanitary sewer line that is below the floor in my basement. The drip part of the system is still in the planning stage. Right now I still add water from a garden hose at water change time, but it is already much easier. I don't have to syphon out the old water. I just add water at the opposite end of the tank from the standpipe. The beauty of this system is that it requires no pumps or anything that could breakdown. The only thing mechanical at all is the fill valve at the vat and it doesn't require electricity. Everything is totally automatic. I could leave home for a month and the tanks on this system would continue getting a 10% water change every day. I will still need to do a gravel vac from time to time but I won't have to refill the aquarium. Just let the drip refill it... Now... if I could just get this thing completed!!!


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## bmlbytes

Do you have un-chlorinated water in your city, or do you have a carbon filter on your house? In other words, how do you protect your fish from chlorine poisoning?


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## Guest

*drip*

That sounds like a great invention you have going there, and about the chlorine issue, or just for general purposes why couldnt you install inline a carbon filter, that would remove all chlorine, and some other nasties. I use one on my refridgerator icemaker line now, that should work for you if chlorine is an issue, and also is very minimal in cost, as well as still purely mechanical.


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## jones57742

ron v said:


> Red, let's continue our discussion in this new thread!


rv: I have been "out of pocket" for many months: could you post the address of the original thread?

TR


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## ron v

Chlorine is not a problem. It evaporates out rather quickly. Chloramine would be the problem...fortunately my local water utility co. doesn't use it. I normally do 40-50% water changes without treating the water in any way. I just spray the water from a garden hose (the thumb over the end of the hose thing). That will get rid of most of the chlorine. The carbon filter is a good idea. I might consider that. My concern is that it would need to be changed probably weekly and I'm not sure it's worth the trouble. 
Jones, the original thread is still active. It involves a discussion of the product Seachem Stability. I think it is in the Freshwater forum.


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## redpaulhus

Basically, what you're describing is a simplier version of what I'm planning on using, and similar to what we do at the LFS I work part-time at.

If I had a spot above tank level in my fishroom where I could mount a water vat, I'd try something similar to what your doing. I'm limited by a low ceiling (fishroom is in my basement) and a very heavy vat (150g).
So my system will use the same basic setup but the vat will be below tank level and water will be pumped up above the tanks.


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## ron v

Red. Will your system be a constant drip or will it be activated for a water change?


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## redpaulhus

ron v said:


> Red. Will your system be a constant drip or will it be activated for a water change?


I'm still trying to decide, but I'm leaning towards timed daily water changes.

If I go constant drip I need to keep the pump running 24/7 on the feed loop.
But if I put it on a timer, it's only running for maybe 15 minutes per day.
I think that would make it easier for me to ensure that I have "good" water ready to go, since my water will need to be adjusted for pH, KH, and temp before being delivered to the tank.

If I had source water like yours, and I was in a warmer part of the country, I'd probably go with a straight drip from the holding tank.
Plus the engineering of a drip from an overhead tank is much simpler than engineering a timed flow from an overhead tank.
("no moving parts to break" !)


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## ron v

redpaulhus said:


> Plus the engineering of a drip from an overhead tank is much simpler than engineering a timed flow from an overhead tank.
> ("no moving parts to break" !)


So true. My main concern is getting it all together without leaks.


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## jones57742

jones57742 said:


> rv: I have been "out of pocket" for many months: could you post the address of the original thread?
> 
> TR


Does each tank overflow into a common wet/dry sump with the return into the "drip source tank"?

TR


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## ron v

jones57742 said:


> Does each tank overflow into a common wet/dry sump with the return into the "drip source tank"?
> 
> TR


No. The overflow is waste. The drip is water directly from the tap. That makes it a water change.


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## jones57742

ron v said:


> No. The overflow is waste. The drip is water directly from the tap. That makes it a water change.


Excuse my ignorance here but what are you guys doing for filtration?

TR


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## redpaulhus

jones57742 said:


> Excuse my ignorance here but what are you guys doing for filtration?
> 
> TR


Sponge filters - both traditional "American" style and "hamburg mattenfilters" - in my case.

Basically similar to this:
http://www.swisstropicals.com/Swisstropicals Fishroom.html

But I don't have enough mattenfilters for 100% of my tanks, so I'll also be using large conventional sponge filters.


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## jones57742

redpaulhus said:


> Sponge filters - both traditional "American" style and "hamburg mattenfilters" - in my case.
> 
> Basically similar to this:
> http://www.swisstropicals.com/Swisstropicals Fishroom.html
> 
> But I don't have enough mattenfilters for 100% of my tanks, so I'll also be using large conventional sponge filters.


This makes sense now!

Why have yall discarded the concept of the overflow into very large wet/dry sump with a return into the drip tank and WC's from the wet/dry sump?

TR


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## ron v

Filtration is with sponge/ box filters. I have a central air supply system circulated through PVC piping throughout my fish room... Jones, I don't use the sump system because I don't want a water pump in my system. My system is much less complicated/ less plumbing, etc.


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## Guest

I've thought about this idea before and tried to work it out. I am on well water, so no chlorine or chloramines or anything like that, but I still wouldn't feel safe without conditioner. I took apart my fog machine the other day, to find a little tiny motor that does 2gph i think it was. and one of my 65 has a 2 inch overflow hole drilled, but i have it patched with plexi. So if you could find a little motor like that, and have that feed into the tank, then I would just drill a hole in the plexi and just attach a little line to a drain.


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## ron v

Lemon, that is an idea but I'm trying to avoid anything electrical. My feed is by gravity from an overhead water storage bin. 2 gph is much more than I want. I'm planning on a 10% water change daily. So a 20 gal tank would only get 2 gallons in a 24 hour period. 
Thanks for your input.


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## Guest

Well I don't see any other good way to regulate it to 2gallons a day. I mean, you could do air hose to the tank, with one of those needle valves that come with air pumps, but you would need a separate little valve for each tank.

Oh, and make sure that the overhead water bin is not completely sealed. You need to have a breather so air can get in as water is taken out. If not your flow will stop.

This is a really cool idea, take some pictured when you're done!


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## ron v

I have the valves. Very similar to metal valves for air lines that adjust with a screw except made of plastic so it won't contaminate the water. They can be adjusted to drip very slowly. You are correct, there will be one for each tank... The overhead bin is just a big Rubbermaid container. It will probable hold about 30 gals. I appreciate the questions lemons. Keep em comming. I need all the help I can get. As I said, I have the drain part of this thing installed and working. I think I have all the parts for the supply side. I just need to find the time to put it all together.


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## Guest

So that is 2gallons a day per tank and you said 2 racks? so you would have to fill the hold tank every 1-3 days?

Why not just get rid of the hold tank and the need to be able to hold 240 pounds of water above head level and just go from a house water line? Oh, but then you would need to do something about the chlorine.


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## bmlbytes

Couldn't you just use some air tubing with a valve on it to regulate the drip. This would be similar to the way that people drip acclimate fish.

EDIT: I guess that has been suggested. Maybe I should read better.


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## ron v

Chlorine is not the problem. If I drip only 2 gal/ day, chlorine would dissipate long before it became a problem. The pressure in my house water line is about 50 psi. It would be very difficult to regulate the drips with a pressure that high. I plan to feed from the house water line into the vat through a fill valve (the kind that turns water on and off when you flush your toilet). So when the vat empties to a point, the valve opens to refill. All automatically!!!


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## Guest

Hmm, neat. That was a good idea. Looks like you have just about everything worked out.

What are your current problems?


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## ron v

I guess the only problem is just finding the time to do it. My main worry is leaking. Seems like any time I try to anything involving plumbing, I have leaks.


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## Guest

Well to ensure you don't have leaks, on any metal to metal screw connections use teflon tape. Teflon tape can be used to plastic, but it could crack it if you use too much. Get some %100 silicone caulk and just caulk all the connections. Also, I'm not sure how safe it is for use with fish, but if you are using PVC, not much will stick to it unless you use PVC primer and PVC cement. Tubing is probably you're best bet I'd say. Just use hose barbs and hose clamps and you should be good. (Make sure if you use a screw style hose clamp on small connections not to crack the hose barb.


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## bmlbytes

PVC is perfectly safe for fish. People use it all the time for sumps. The primer and glue are also safe when they are dry. 

Although both copper plumbing and pvc seem like they would be overkill for it. If he wants to do an autofill system with only a couple gallons of water a day, then he needs nothing more than the size of the air line tubes. He could easily tap on to a faucet with a barb and just put a tiny flexible tube to his tank.


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## Guest

I thought it was safe upon drying, but I didn't know.
He's already got a more complicated system that that worked out , but it is simply complicated, not complexly complicated haha.

I don't think copper could be a good idea. Doesn't it kill snails? and also you would have to sodder (spell check) it, and the sodder contains lead and tin. This is how it is done in your house, so it must be okay i guess, but idk.

Like I said, and bml, tubing is probably best

But I have found a potential problem:
If you go directly from a house pipe like I suggested before, you have higher pressure, but you can a consistently higher pressure. But if you are going from a 30gallon jug, the flow of water will be inconsistent as the level in the jug lowers and raises.


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## bmlbytes

Copper is a bad idea for fish tanks, but many houses have copper lines already.

Solder (<- the correct spelling) is no longer made with lead in it. It now has a resin base that is safer than lead. 

And the pressure shouldn't change too much if he makes sure the bucket is always full and not down too much.


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## ron v

The 30 gal vat will have a bulkhead in the bottom attached to 3/4" PVC piping. The PVC will split into two lines (one to each rack of tanks). The individual valves, for each tank, are threaded and will be tapped into the 3/4" PVC with waterline tubing running to the tank. The thought that fluctuating water lever in the vat would effect the timing of the drips is valid. Good point. Let me think about that.


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## Guest

Ya. but after a little while im sure any copper that would leech would already be gone, and thats why tap water is okay for fish. Although you do have your heavy metal removers... not sure if Cu is a heavy metal tho.

A lot of solders actually do still contain lead. They are switching to the resin based but about the half the time you'll be picking up a lead based unless the store only stocks the resin based.

He is using a toilet fill valve. And now that I think about it, I think it is going to be very annoying for you. The valve is only completely off at the top, so as soon as the water goes down any little bit, the valve will slightly turn on, and you will have that hissing sound that you get when the toilet reservoir is almost filled and the valve is shutting completely off. So with 2 gallons a day, lets say 10 tanks, thats 20 gallons a day. It turns out to be a miniscual gph (about 0.83), but you may find that the valve will just level out, and stay constantly slightly open all day every day, making a hissing sound.


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## ron v

My thinking is that the fill valve is off when the float is in the highest position and stays off while the vat slowly drains down. When the float reaches the lowest position, the fill valve opens to refill the vat. If that is not how it works Lemons, you may be right, it would be annoying. Maybe I need another kind of fill valve.


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## bmlbytes

There are different float valves than the toilet ones.


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## Guest

Ya im pretty sure there is no lapse for when its off, but I have an idea

Wait, no. I just thought about it and wouldn't work.

And there are also 2 valve types that I'm aware of. There is the one where there is a floaty ball on an arm that moves the valve, but the ones we have are a cylindrical float on an upright plastic rod, the flot is connected to the valve at the top of the rod, and it goes down an inch before it turns on, and it seems to turn on full blast, not partial. I was thinking about the rod type before. that is the only type i had seen until 2 seconds ago.


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## ron v

Yeah, the type I have is the one with the floating cylinder on a vertical shaft. I still don't know if it fully on or off or if it might do the hissing thing. What other kinds of fill valves are out there?


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## Guest

Personally I don't like this idea at all (the tub part, that is). I think you could do it much better than that.


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## ron v

lemons said:


> Personally I don't like this idea at all (the tub part, that is). I think you could do it much better than that.


I'm all ears lemons.


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## Guest

Well you can do a direct line from your house water. It is high pressure, but not too high to work. If you already are going to have little valves on it, it should be fine. There are valves you can by that actually regulate pressure, instead of something that just closes the tube off partially (although even a ball valve only partially open may work. While, if given the chance, the pressures would equalize, but if you have it closed off so much that the open flow from the ball valve is just a little greater than that of the flow of all the tubing, the pressure would only have a chance to be slightly raised.). From there you just split it up to all your little tubing with the valves on it for fine tuning.

The type of valve I'm talking about that regulates pressure is often found on air compressors, like the one we have. it pumps to 150 PSI no matter what, but there is a valve that regulates how much pressure is released into the hose.


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## ron v

Hmmmmm. I see what you are saying lemons. I guess there are pros and cons, either way. I had not thought of the pressure reducing valve idea. Another problem with the fill valve is possible malfunction of the valve (not turning off ). It would flood my fish room. I have thought about an overflow standpipe in my vat. I'm also not sure exactly what the toilet fill valves are made of. Anything toxic to the fish. Afterall they are not intended for use in a potable water situation. Let me think more about this...

Lemons, you have to be more than 22. A typo maybe. You are much to smart to be that young!!!

I do question the wisdom of wasting a 150 gal aquarium on a sturgeon tho... Maybe you are 22. LOL!!!


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## Guest

I'm 15 actually. Couldn't find the page to edit my name to change it. I'm used to registering on private torrent sites that require members to be 22, and ive been mod on said sites, so i have basically another life made up where im 22.

its worth it man. not for a white sturgeon, but an atlantic yes.


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## bmlbytes

For the fail-safe, install an overflow that leads to one of those water sensors that will turn the pipes off if water is detected.


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## Guest

He wanted to keep it all mechanical, nothing electronic. You could use an overflow to a drain fairly easily if you used the bin idea. and even with the direct idea, you could have the pipe come into the bin with a hole in the side, and all the air tubing leave through holes, install a hole in the bottom of the bin that leads to a drain, and caulk around all the hoses so if any of your connections blow you're safe.


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## ron v

The overflow is a standpipe with the top about an inch above the top setting of the fill valve. That way, if the fill valve doesn't shut off, all the incoming water will go down the standpipe into my waste tank. I'm using bulkheads everywhere a pipe penetrates the bin. 
Lemons, I have been thinking about your "direct connection" idea and it has merit but for some reason I still like the vat idea. For one thing, I have all the parts on hand and I don't know where to get a pressure reducing valve. I thought about the partially open ball valve but the high pressure thing still bothers me. I'm thinking the pressure may still be the same even with the valve only partially open. Less volume but same pressure. It has been 45 years since I took physics but it seems like I remember having to solve a problem with a 55 gal drum filled with water. The question was, if two holes were punched into the side of the drum toward the bottom, one 1" in dim. and the other 1/2" in dim. how far out, from the drum, would the water flow. I think the answer is that it would flow the same distance. One hole is larger and "more" water would flow but pressure from above is the same. So the distance out is the same. If I am remembering this correctly, the ball valve idea wouldn't lower the pressure. Maybe one of the physics majors out there can help with this???
BTW lemons, I am still impressed with your knowledge, even if I have tee shirts that are older than you.


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## Guest

Well I just did fluid dynamics in an engineering class. Granted I was sleeping half the time, but this is what I take from it.
You cannot just say, which would flow farther. Water seeks it's own level. It depends on what the height is. But for argument sake, lets say they are just going the same way, however that may be, just not down, or else it doesn't matter. I think the half inch would have the water pushed farther because the half inch and inch openings have the same amount of pressure on them, but the inch has more water to push. Think of it this way: There is more water in the inch pipe, so it would take more pressure to push the same distance as the half inch, because there is a greater weight to push.

You're right, the pressure would equalize with the partially open ball valve, but only if given the chance. If it were filling hoses that were capped off the pressure would equalize just as quickly as they could fill with water. But since you have 20gpd (gallons per day) flowing, if you set the ball valve to a place where it would only flow at 21gpd, the pressure (I would imagine) would only slightly increase. And that slight pressure would be good, and allow you to adjust all the small air hose valves. In addition to which, I would also imagine that the pressure exerted by the weight of 30 gallons of water would probably be just as much as with the other system.

Also I think you may be able to simply get a flow regulator, that you can just set to only allow say 1gph of water to pass. Then that would be 24gpd, and you could just try it with the extra pressure, or just compromise and make the water changes slightly bigger than %10.

haha, you wouldn't believe how many times people have told me that they have shirts older than I.


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## ron v

You may be right lemons. If you put your thumb over the end of a garden hose to restrict the flow, the water will squrt farther. Seems like the same principle. I'm still going to do the vat. Maybe I can get at least part of it set up tomorrow after the football games. I'll let you know.


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## Guest

Alright cool. I've just thought of a way that you could rig up a valve to only go on when water is very low and to fill all the way. But you still have to think about if the pressure difference from the lesser amount of water will make a different.

You bring a pipe into the vat with a ball valve on it. You rig up a vertical rod. Around the rod will be a weight heavy enough to... nah, it wont work. It would only turn the valve partially on....

Good luck with it man. BTW, that bulkhead idea was good, wouldn't have though of it.


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## jones57742

Rv: I have really gotten lost in this thread but in general:

If you go with gravity flow you will have unequal flow distribution at each discharge orifice.

If you have a master shut off for your 50psi source with a Tee and Valve at each discharge orifice you will be able to control the flow into each tank.

TR


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## Guest

Yes, but he is afraid of the high pressure because he can't plumb very well. That's why I suggested that route, because you have equal pressure all the time, unlike the vat, it changes. Unless he did the toilet thing that will turn on when the water goes down an inch, then it would barely change.

Oh, and 30 gallons of water weighs roughly 240 pounds. Make sure it is supported well.


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## jones57742

lemons said:


> Yes, but he is afraid of the high pressure because he can't plumb very well.


le: that is what the main valve is for.

It will convert the potential energy on the main side to kinetic energy with limited potential energy on the orifices' side.

Threaded connectors with thread tape will cure the leakage at the Tees and Valves.

TR


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## Guest

That is what I proposed, but he still thought that it would still have high pressure. I tried to explain it, but he just feels safer going with what he knows


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## ron v

The problem is not the plumbing. Well not the "normal plumbing" anyhow... Actually I installed the plumbing in the house I am living in and I own a commercial general contracting business. I have been in the construction business since 1972. I know how to do plumbing. This stuff is not normal. My drain system main line is PVC piping (I can handle that) but the lines from each aquarium bulkhead are vinyl tubing. There is no standard connector to go from PVC to vinyl tubing. Even the bulkhead to vinyl connector is a speciality item. You can't buy it at Home Depot. This is where leaks occur. My supply system from the vat is only partially PVC. The drip valves I have are not standard screw connect PVC ball valves (I wish it were that simple). They are low pressure drip valves that are made for this purpose. The standard PVC valves from Home Depot will not adjust fine enough to control a drip rate of 2 gal. per day. My drip valves are plastic with fine threads. I'm going to have to drill 1/4" holes in the PVC and try to hand screw in the little valves. I have a central airline system that also uses PVC and valves, but the air valves are brass and have courser threads. I used a tap and die set for those. The water supply valves have threads that are too fine for a tap set. That is where I am worried about leaks. I know about teflon tape and pumbers putty and all that stuff. This is just going to have to be trial and error. 
I love the imput tho. Ya'll keep it coming. Lemons has already caused me to look at things in different ways.


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## Guest

Hmm, you didn't explain that part before.
Ya, I was thinking a needle valve similar to the ones that comes with air pumps would be nice, sounds like what you have... or at least similar.

To be honest with you, I would just make all of it and hope it holds.
I would go from a water line to a metal ball valve, possibly using reducers to get down to a small metal ball valve for even finer control over the main feed. Then adapter to a male thread fitting. Then get some 2 inch PVC or some fat metal pipe, and get 2 Flat end pieces. Just drill and tap one end of the ball valve (using teflon), and even a nut on the inside to stop a complete blowout should one happen. Then on the other and some small metal hose barbs, threaded into the opposite side from the main valve. Do the same thing for the small hose barbs. Then air hose onto said small hose barbs, small pipe clamp, and viola. Of course, it's probably more complicated than that... I came up with it while I was typing.

Just as you are apposed to a direct feed system, I am just opposed to the vat idea lol. Both could be made to work just as well as each other with a little effort... just different minds think differently.


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## ron v

I don't want metal in contact with any water that goes into my aquariums. Stainless steel would probable be OK, but anything galvanized or steel or copper is a no-no. I'm not even sure aluminum would be safe. I'm even concerned about what all is in the fill valve. It is mostly plastic but has a couple of small bits of aluminum and I can't see inside. To me, that is the thing that worries me most. Lemons, I am probably making this more complicated than it needs to be. Like you said.... put it together and see if it works.


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## Guest

Ya I was thinking galvanized would be bad, that's why I just left it at metal. Well, you could do the same thing but with all PVC parts... It just wouldn't be as strong at all the threaded connection I would think... and that would really be where the backing nuts would come in handy.

I'm out of ideas for the moment.


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## jones57742

ron v said:


> I own a commercial general contracting business. I have been in the construction business since 1972.


rv: Just to note: I have a civil engineering and surveying company and do many of the larger commercial projects in the San Angelo area.

I virtually refuse to work for the architect and insist on working for the owner: hence I am one of the two guys which you cuss/discuss during a project,




ron v said:


> This stuff is not normal.


NS!




ron v said:


> There is no standard connector to go from PVC to vinyl tubing.


I believe the way that this is done is the ID of the vinyl is virtually identical to the OD of the Sch40 PVC or a reducer is employed as is a band clamp.




ron v said:


> Even the bulkhead to vinyl connector is a speciality item. You can't buy it at Home Depot. This is where leaks occur.


Hence the band clamp.




ron v said:


> The standard PVC valves from Home Depot will not adjust fine enough to control a drip rate of 2 gal. per day.


I never anticipated a constant "true drip" flow but a turn on and off every couple of days or so. The constant low flow "will eat" a channel in or clog up anything.




ron v said:


> I don't want metal in contact with any water that goes into my aquariums. Stainless steel would probable be OK, but anything galvanized or steel or copper is a no-no.


I in general agree except for the stainless steel. You probably plumbed your house with Sch40 PVC but do not forget that the mains from the treatment plant to the elevated storage tanks/water pumping tanks are steel cylinder possibly with some old cast iron pipe.

TR


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## emc7

What do you think about the "drip irrigation" systems sold for outdoor flower beds. Are they fish-safe? Are they just overpriced? Years ago I had a plastic spigot on my 40 gallon garbage can used for water treatment, when I went to replace it I could only find brass spigots. I understand brass is a no-no for fish even though the house's water supply lines are copper.


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## ron v

jones, anyone having anything to do with design gets cussed/ discussed from time to time on our projects. LOL. 

Your note about eating a channel is interesting/ disturbing. The constant flow is the whole idea. A normal water change is somewhat disturbing to the fish. I want everything to happen at a constant rate. Do you think I will have a problem? If so where? I have considered adding an in line filter (like a whole house filter) between the house plumbing and the vat. Would that help?

I am trying to eliminate metal of any kind from my system. My house plumbing is PVC/CPVC. I have no control over what happens before it gets to my house so I just hope for the best.

EMC, I don't know a lot about the drip irrigation systems but I think they are not adjustable. You just live with whatever flow rate they have built in.


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## Guest

You know, emc7 might be right. You might want to check out some "growing" products... There are lots of new things out, that might be able to handle what you want to do...


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## jones57742

ron v said:


> Do you think I will have a problem? If so where?


Yes.

Where the velocity stream is the greatest channels will be cut due to contaminants.

Where the velocity stream is the least contaminants will build up.




ron v said:


> I have considered adding an in line filter (like a whole house filter) between the house plumbing and the vat. Would that help?


I do not know what a "whole house filter" is but a RO/DI unit will solve 95% of my concerns.




ron v said:


> I am trying to eliminate metal of any kind from my system.


I agree.

Sacrificial anodes for cathodic protection will not function well at all in this application.




ron v said:


> EMC, I don't know a lot about the drip irrigation systems but I think they are not adjustable. You just live with whatever flow rate they have built in.


Folks:

The drip systems to which I am accustomed are on/off systems.

They are typically employed in order to eliminate water consumption which occurs via evaporation in a sprinkler head system.

TR


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## daniel89

Just and idea for chlorine matters , you could make a connection like the miracle grow attachment for your water hose where you stick the ferts in it and it is dispense over time, just stick your chlorine remover in it instead of ferts and I believe that should cure that problem.


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## Guest

Daniel,
That would need to be pumped, or be in a 30 gallon vat to work. And then it would put back pressure on the entire system. If the chlorine already is not a problem, why make it one?

ron,
You might want to just take a quick peak at some grow systems, you might find one that is exactly what you need, so it's worth 5 minutes of research.

Wait a sec...
This entire thing is stupid, there's one thing I don't think anyone suggested which would make everything a lot easier.

Keep the vat and your refill valve. Just put the smallest power head you can find in the vat to pump instead of having the stream of water powered by the weight of the water.
A lot of power heads are adjustable and are just rated for their top adjustment, I'm sure you could get an appropriately size one, and if not, it doesn't really matter, your little needle valves will do the job.


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