# After a Freshwater Dip



## Prez1 (Aug 26, 2010)

I've been researching this for a bit now and I can not seem to find a definite answer.

-removing fish from an established tank to dip
-follow one of the many very similar ways to freshwater dip them

Then what?

-place them immediately back into the established tank?
-place them in a separate container with water from the established tank, then remove and place in the tank?
-re-acclimate them to the established tank?

Yes, more than likely I will setup a hospital tank but, nothing states what to do after the dip [as in] if it shocks the fish by placing them back into water with salinity immediately after freshwater.


Thanks ! =)


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## petlovingfreak (May 8, 2009)

I'd go right into the quarentine. I've used FW dips a few times before.


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## Osiris (Jan 18, 2005)

I've only used FW dips on ZOanthids, but indeed a Q-tank before back to main tank, in case of outbreak


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## Prez1 (Aug 26, 2010)

Just to be clear so I understand correctly,

The fish will be *immediately* placed into a tank (QT/Hospital) that has it's salinity/gravity at the proper levels (1.02.......), pH, temperature, etc. after the freshwater dip (same pH, temp.).

It should/will not harm the fish going from zero salinity to normal levels.?.?.?.? _I guess that's how I should have asked my original question,,,,lol_


Thank You!!!!


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## Fishfirst (Jan 24, 2005)

It will not generally harm the fish unless the fish is too weak. What is the reason for the freshwater dip?


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## Prez1 (Aug 26, 2010)

I am almost positive I am seeing the inital stages of ich on them.

I have been prepping a hospital tank to transfer them to once I complete the dip. It's been slow because they are in a Marineland Eclipse 12gal and I am going to need to take water from that tank and probably remove the bio wheel hoping it will keep the hospital tank going properly. I will finish treating them in there hoping that what's left in the main tank will die off over a long period of time without hosts.

What will be left in the Eclipse is live sand and live rock with some inverts (a few small hermits, 2 peppermint shrimp and 2 small snails and the hitchikers in the live rock - brittle starfish, very small urchin).

I have no idea why this happened, I followed the QT procedures prior to putting them in the tank and they were in the main tank for well over three weeks with no signs of this. It all happened shortly after I did a water change using Nutri Seawater. I had been using Instant Ocean for water changes and the tank was originally setup using a combo of Instant Ocean and Nurti Seawater. Oh well. The good thing is they are still eating well (New Life Spectrum Thera A and sometimes some frozen mysis).

As far as what I will treat them with once they are in the hospital tank, I am uncertain since there is SO MUCH conflicting information out there as what works ok and what doesn't. Some say use 123Product and another says don't use 123Product, it's such a pita. I understand different people get different results using whatever method they used and report it but it's just a pain when you don't know what you should use. I chose the freshwater dip first because it seems to be the most widely used and most widely accepted with little negative/don't do it recommendations.

Thank you all for your help with my question. =)


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## Fishfirst (Jan 24, 2005)

What species of fish are being treated?
How big is the QT?
What was your QT before? Did you use medication when the fish were initially in QT?
Sounds like you have a decent plan of action... keep us updated.


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## Prez1 (Aug 26, 2010)

?1 = True Perculas (male and female, were together when I purchased them)

?2 = Eclipse 6gal

?3 & 4= Eclipse 6gal with no meds


Thank you, I will.


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## Fishfirst (Jan 24, 2005)

The three probable parasites you may be seeing is Ich, Oodinium, or Brook. 
Ich and Oodinium can be treated with Copper at 1.0-1.5. I would recommend coppersafe and a copper test kit. Generally only needing to dose once if water changes aren't performed. Formalin will kill Brook as well as a long freshwater dip. For being very sensitive fish to other chemicals, Clowns take freshwater dips very well. A 5-10 min bath is completely safe as long as the clowns stay swimming and don't breath extremely heavy.


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## Prez1 (Aug 26, 2010)

Well, I seem to be having an issue. I waited a few more days before starting the freshwater dip and hospital tank just so the bio wheel from the six could remain in the 12gal a bit longer. I guess it didn't matter though.

They went through the freshwater dip just fine.

I drained a bit over 1/2 the 12gal (obviously it did not equal 6gal + due to the live sand/rock) using my magnum 350 with the micron cartridge directly into the 6gal tank. I topped it off with a proper saltmix w/water (exact pH, temp match of orginal tank). I place the bio wheel and the rest of the equipment in the tank and started it up. I added just a bit over a teaspoon of Mardel's Coppersafe (directions say 1tsp/4gal). Then I added the fish and a clump of Chaetomorpha.

My issue is the bio wheel must not have established itself enough from the main tank and now this tank is showing ammonia. I started doing water changes more than 1/2 a tank, sometimes adding Seachem's Stability crossing my fingers; but I feel I'm being cruel to the fish. I work during the day and I can't help but think I am torchering the poor things. I'm even losing sleep over this. Should I buy some live sand or something else to help with this?

Any other advice you can offer? Thank you.


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## Prez1 (Aug 26, 2010)

Welp, after picking up a ammonia alert tag to put in the tank I believe the fish should be ok. I had been testing the water using the API drops (8 of #1 and 8 of #2) waited 5 minutes and the vile would turn a light green so I thought there was too much ammonia in the tank. I read about these indicators vs the drops and if it's correct, these measure the free ammonia that would be of more importance that what the drops measure. I've included a few pics, the ammonia indicator is still yellow, yay! I've been measuring for Nitrites with the drop test and it's still at zero (light blue), Nitrates are at 5ppm. I've also noticed some white fungus on the male with some tail rot and started a erythromycin treatment in the tank too.

They have been both active and eating which is a good sign to me.


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