# testing water



## big fish (Feb 11, 2005)

I bought a test kit and it has tests for:
Nitrate
Ammonia
pH
Nitrite
High Range pH
1. So my questions are do i need to test for ALL of these?
2. If NOT which ones do i need to watch?
3. How often should i test?
4. What level should they be at?
This is what the test kit said:
pH=7.0
Ammonia=? says 4ppm or more with new tank, then will rapidly fall. What is it suppose to be at? 0?
Nitrite=0
Nitrate=40ppm or less
I have 2 tanks. One 20gal comm. tank and one 100gal tank with 1 12'' oscar.
5. Should the readings be the same for both tanks?

Thanks for any info.


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## madmatrixz3000 (Feb 3, 2005)

First, yes you will have to eventually test with all of these and possibly more.

Second like the pamphlet said, you should test with water changes and if a fish dies.  I myself test for PH and Ammonia weekly because, if Ammonia is high at one point then in the future Nitrites and Nitrates will rise.  This is because of the Nitrogen Cycle.

Here is a site that will tell you what to keep the PH at for your fish. As far as Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates go; KEEP THEM AS LOW AS POSSIBLE!!!


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## aquariumfishguy (Jan 18, 2005)

One should try not to alter the pH of a tank unless the pH is so greatly off that most of the fish cannot survive it. This would have to be pretty extreme (below 6.2 or above 9)… most people’s pH is perfectly fine for community fish (or common fish).

I only test for nitrates, as that is all I have (readable) on a cycled tank. Once your tank has cycled, ammonia and nitrites should be at zero.


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## madmatrixz3000 (Feb 3, 2005)

well i agree that Nitrates should be tested for, but once you know how often you need to change the water in your tank then you should watch ammonia to make sure there is no spike.


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## aquariumfishguy (Jan 18, 2005)

If your tank is cycled, and a regular water schedule is met, ammonia should never spike. This would be extremely hard to do in an established (stable) aquarium.


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## madmatrixz3000 (Feb 3, 2005)

the point is that I have only had my tank up for 3 months so a spike IS STILL POSSIBLE


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

madmatrixz3000 @ Fri Feb 18 said:


> the point is that I have only had my tank up for 3 months so a spike IS STILL POSSIBLE


A cycled tank will not spike.


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## madmatrixz3000 (Feb 3, 2005)

my brother and all the people that I know say that I should still watch out just in case


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## E (Mar 8, 2005)

A cycled tank can spike if a fish or large plant dies. If the dead thing is removed, it should go back down quick. I only test for ammonia in tanks where I can't count the fish.


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## E (Mar 8, 2005)

If your filter clogs or the power goes out a cycled tank can spike. But checking the filters and changing water is a better use of time the testing for ammonia in an established tank.


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## fishfreaks (Jan 19, 2005)

you should test with everything that came in your kit atleast once a week, because they ALL are important to watch


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## Fishfirst (Jan 24, 2005)

I personally only watch nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, and pH in the tank... the rest are fairly irrelivant if you have fairly hardy species of fish


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## Lexus (Jan 19, 2005)

Or be like some of us and not worry about it and do the required water changes... testing occasionaly or when something is wrong. I started testing and was freaking out about my readings then decided its not worth it cause everything is living healthy and happy.


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## flynngriff (Jan 19, 2005)

I only regularly test for nitrates and pH. My tanks have been cycled for years, and I haven't seen any nitrites or ammonia since they cycled. I still check them every once in a while, but not often at all.

I keep an eye on my pH because I have soft water, and my pH gradually goes down with the driftwood in one of my tanks, and I watch my nitrates, because I move fish from tank to tank, and this affects the bioload which can cause nitrate levels to raise faster. Sometimes I have to do more frequent water changes because the bioload in one tank is higher than another.

I haven't had any problems at all doing it this way. But until your tank is cycled, and you understand the chemistry related to that, I'd suggest you keep a close eye on pH, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates.

I would also get a water hardness test kit, since that will affect the stability of your pH, and different fish prefer different hardness in their water.


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