# Cycling question



## doulos668 (Jul 24, 2015)

How long after a water change do you wait to check ammonia?

Cycling with fish and ammolock. Off the charts ammonia spike. Did a 20% change and found no difference in the ammonia. Then I did a 50% change, no changes. I waited about 12 hours and found it to be around 5-6ppm. 

So I am wondering how long to wait to test. I am using API Master test kit. Thanks

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## lohachata (Jan 27, 2006)

what size tank and what fish ?
i am probably the wrong person to answer this since i don't test my tanks or use chemicals to alter things..we only use Chloram X to dechlorinate when doing major water changes or setting up a new tank..
using ammo lock will reduce ammonia levels , but only for a short time , that will be followed by an ammonia spike..using it will impede the cycle process..i would allow the tank to cycle naturally .......
pay less attention to your chemistry set and more attention to the fish...they will let you know if they are in trouble..


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## Elliott225 (Jan 9, 2014)

I have noticed when the ammonia goes off the scale, as long as there is no excess food rotting on the tank bottom or dead fish, the cycle is close to finishing. Watch the fish and notice if they are laboring for oxygen. Try adding an air stone to churn the water and help with the gas exchange.


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## doulos668 (Jul 24, 2015)

I hate air stones but I may end up going that route.

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## mousey (Jan 18, 2005)

there used to be charts on the internet that showed how the cycle proceeds from a chemistry point of view. About day 10 the ammonia peaks and then drops to normal and at that time the nitrites start to rise. When they peak and suddenly drop of you have nitrates which are then reduced by water changes.
I have usually cycled with ammo lock or prime. Each will last about 24-48 hours effectiveness in the tank then you do a 25 % water change and dose the prime or ammolock again. I think the info is in the small print on the back of the bottle.
A bubbler is a good idea as the chemicals reduce O2 levels in the tank.

In contrast to loha I have not found that the chemicals impede the cycling process.
If you are really paranoid about cycling and don't have any old filter media available you can use Stability . Have tried this from a cold start with plants in the tank and it has worked well.

I often will squeeze an old filter into the water or seed the new filter with a bit of filter floss from an established tank. I also get a piece of house plant -vine type- and insert into the tank and throw some hornwort in too. I like to cover all my bases and get thru the cycle in as fast as possible. 

I enjoy testing the water and seeing how it does. Have never lost any fish through cycles but I don't add a heavy bio load either. Have used bettas to do it with no problems.
The warmer the tank the faster the cycle within limits. Be aware that the warmer the tank the less o2 the water holds so you would be back to a bubbler again!


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## Elliott225 (Jan 9, 2014)

Another thought to help with the gas exchange, a power head or a hang on tank filter. As long as you are causing the water surface to agitate, you are getting aeration.


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## emc7 (Jul 23, 2005)

The numbers shouldn't take long to respond to water change, just enough time to mix the water well. If your filters move 6 x the gallons of water in the tank per hour, 10 minutes should be enough for a 50% water change to show a 50% drop in ammonia concentration. 

If you don't see a drop, than likely ammonia was twice the highest number on the chart or more. Do another water change, maybe 70% this time. If the levels drop more slowly than that, it likely because of the tank cycling, plants or ammo-carb. 

I do like Hornwort (ammonia and nitrite eater) and Prime ("detoxifes ammonia") during cycling. It also doesn't hurt to seed once or twice a week with old media or a product like Stability. 

Reading the Ammo-lock blurb, it sounds a lot like Prime.


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## Guest (Aug 5, 2015)

Here is what I would do: I would get rid of the ammo-lock, because it is apparent that it is messing up your cycle by a lot. Let your tank cycle, test the water every few days to check ammonia and nitrite. They should go down as soon as you stop using the ammo-lock. Do water changes every few days to get the ammonia down. Once you get the ammonia and nitrite levels at 0ppm and they stay there, then check for nitrates. Once you have 0 ammonia and nitrite, but some nitrate, your tank will be cycled. I cycled my 5.5 gallon tank in three weeks, of course I took three decorations from my 55 gallon and put them in the 5.5 gallon and let my 5.5 gallon cycle. No I didn't use anything but dechlor and I only did one water change during the whole cycling process.


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## doulos668 (Jul 24, 2015)

After lots of reading and consulting I did another 75% water change. We are down to 6ppm...sheesh.









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## Guest (Aug 7, 2015)

Keep doing water changes every few days until the ammonia gets to 0ppm and the nitrite is 0ppm. You should get some nitrates but not a whole lot. Do not use the ammo-lock at all, that will screw up your cycle.


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## Guest (Aug 12, 2015)

Doulos668: how is the tank coming along with the cycle?


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## doulos668 (Jul 24, 2015)

We are over the hump...mostly nitrates now. I just planted the tank heavily to help with that too. Very happy with outcome

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## Guest (Aug 13, 2015)

Awesome! That is great news. Just keep the nitrates low by doing weekly water changes.


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## Elliott225 (Jan 9, 2014)

You may get an ammonia spike from adding a lot of plants. If it has finished cycling it should correct itself fairly quick.


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## doulos668 (Jul 24, 2015)

I also changed the substrate to the eco complete stuff to get the right bacteria balance...so far, really good!

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## doulos668 (Jul 24, 2015)

I think we are coming to the end! 30 ppm Nitrates....nitrates miniscule and 0 ammonia...a few more days!

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## doulos668 (Jul 24, 2015)

Miniscule nitrites*

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