# Future Saltwater aquarist



## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Hello. I'm in the process of doing an awful lot of reading & research in starting a SW aquarium. Thus far I already have my eye on a 28 gallon bowfront tank and the equipment needed as well as Live rock and arag-alive sand in mind. Oh yeah I also know exactly what I'm looking to have in fish community. I'm definitely looking at a pair of Ocellaris Clownfish, and a Coral Beauty. My question is what else can I put in the community besides the clowns & angel ?


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## harif87 (Jun 5, 2006)

You might want to start with a tank thats a little bigger than 28 gallons. Its usually hard to keep water chemistry stable in smaller tanks which is why a larger tank is usually suggested. Your also pretty limited to not so many fish with a small tank like a 28. If you can i would say upgrade. As far as fish go, there are smaller gobies and dartfish you could fit in a 28 gallon. But otherwise, like i said it would be wiser to upgrade to a larger tank if you can.


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## CollegeReefer (Sep 1, 2006)

If you would stick with the 29 gal, the 2 clowns and dwarf angel would all you would be able to put in there. You could maybe get away with a small goby but that may be pushing the bio load. All kind of depends on what kind of filtration you use. Sump, protein skimmer, hob filter... If you don't have a tank yet you might want to look into something bigger. Like stated above the large the tank the easier to take care of because you have more water volume to work with if you make a mistake. I wish i could have a larger tank. I would also strongly recomend a sump/refigum if you have the room and money.


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## Fishfirst (Jan 24, 2005)

Like everyone said... bigger is ALWAYS better, but if you can't afford bigger, then you'll have to work with a 28 gallon tank. Which dwarf angel were you looking at? I'd go with a pygmy for that size tank. Do you want a reef? Fish only with liverock? or only fish?

Have you done freshwater before?


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

To be honest - I understand bigger is better but then again being shy 2 gallons of 30 isn't too bad. I have been told 4 fish is the maximum to put in a 28 gallons by a couple of people and at Foster & Smith website. I am also going to add some Peppermint shrimps (2), Algae pack, and a Marble Sea Star (which will be added at a much later time once the tank matures.) I'm also looking into adding some polyps & mushrooms later too. 
Here are the equipment I'm looking to get : Emperor BIO-Wheel Powerfilter Model 280, Powersweep Powerhead Model 214, Visi-Therm heater (100 watts). I've heard skimmers are kind of controversial depending on who you talk to. Not that I'm against skimmers but think it's not really necessary except in larger tanks. I am looking to go in the direction of Live Rock and Arag-Alive substrate. 
Don't worry about beating up on me and I can handle criticism well. After all, I am learning and a beginner who have been doing alot of research and reading up on starting a saltwater aquarium. Right now I had bought and have read more than once a book called The New Marine Aquarium by Michael Paletta. I definitely got my money's worth. Nowadays with all the new technology, it's now possible to go smaller than 20 gallons BUT with limited fish and more responsibilty to care for the salt tank. I know you folks have the most experience than me but I'm not looking to disagree with what you have to say except that IT IS possible to put one together using a 28 gallon tank.


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

A skimmer is MORE important on smaller tanks where water quality can decline more rapidly. I personally would get rid of the HOB filter and get a skimmer instead. Those type of filters do nothing but trap NO3 which will eventually be released back into the watercolumn (exactly where you dont want it in a sw tank). A skimmer will reove the debris before it can turn to NO3 and fould up your tank. The heaters are fine.

Its good you are open to criticism (which you will find here as well as any site). I've only been in the sw area for about 4 months now but I can guarantee you this. Once you set up your tak, you will want bigger 

What type and where are you getting your liverock from? Depending on how fast you want to stock the tank a larger % of base rock to premium is much cheaper but will slow down the maturation of the tank. I went with a 70% base and 30% live and it took about 6 weeks. Its still maturing but levels are minimal (less than 5 NO3). I also highly recommend a sump. Even a 10 gallon put underneath with some sand and cheato or calupra or even mangrove will benefit the main tank greatly.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

I'll probably et my live rock either one of the 3 places : Locally (if they look good), liveaquaria.com (Foster & Smith website) or vividaquariums.com (they can set up what I need for the tank size I need) I'll probably find live rock that's partially cured for shorter curing process. BTW - when curing live rock, can you cure them in those brand new 24 gallon household plastic tubs ? Just a thought.


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## Damon (Jan 18, 2005)

Sure you can. I perfer (hell, I've only set up 1 tank) to add it all in my main tank with no livestock and let it cure there. Waterchanges is all you will have to do and if any life lives on the rock, you wont have to replace it. Got a nice mushroom (I think thats what it is, havent ID'd it yet) doing so. You can also run your skimmer to let it mature and kill 2 birds with one stone.


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## Fishfirst (Jan 24, 2005)

exactly... infact liverock is a great way to cycle your tank through the nitrogen cycle. Another place for some good liverock would be tampa bay saltwater. What lights are you planning?


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## CollegeReefer (Sep 1, 2006)

when your tank is up and running i sugest 20% water changes every week. Also because the tank is smaller i think it is even more important to use RO water.

Zachary
24 Gal aquapod


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

That was gonna be my nice question - lighting. I have no clue nor idea what is better or worse. I'm really confused with the various types of bulbs and lighting types. Actinic? Fluorescent? Full Spectrum? I'd like to get something like a dual and throw in a moonlight lunar for night time on get it all set up on a timer. I want to set something up for dawn, noon, dusk and night with lunar going on after the lights in the tank are completely off after an hour or 2. I don't want to go with metal halides (too much heat to water). Any help would be appreciated. What would be ideal lighting for a beginner for a FOWLR tank ?


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## CollegeReefer (Sep 1, 2006)

If you don't want metal halids i would then go with pc. Check out orbit compact Fluorescent light fixture. I am not sure the length of your tank but i am guesssing 24inchs. The orbit would set you at 189.99 with 130 watts. This would also allow you to get your foot into some corals if you decide to got that route. I would also suggest a protein skimmer. I really haven't heard any debate about them besides that it is the best thing you can do for your tank. Maybe you are thinking of smaller tanks at which there are really no good protein skimmers for the size tank, for instance my aquapod. If you can i would also once again strongly recomend you setting up a 10 gal sump/refgium. This does a couple of things. Gives you more water volume, lets you keep your heater and protein skimmer hidden, and also allows you to grow some cal. and what not. Also it helps with your pod population as well. Oh and for a protein skimmer i would suggest the Coralife Super kimmer need wheel protein skimmer. The 65 gal one would work great and is only 75 buck through foster and smith.


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## Fishfirst (Jan 24, 2005)

A quick run down on lighting

1st you have a wattage: fairly important, the more watts the better usually although T-5 HO, VHO, and metal halide lighting is better than PC because the light they produce penetrate the water more efficently. (ex. 175 watts of metal halide is much better than PC)

2nd you have degrees kelvin: this is what temp the light burns at, creating a spectrum of light. This is where you get "full spectrum" and "actinic" lighting. Actinic is mostly to bring out color in corals, full spectrum gives them the light they need to photosynthesize like a plant. The "K" value such as 10K or 10000K are the same thing... and the lower you go in K the more yellow a light source is, verses the higher you go in K the more blue the light source is. Actinic is nothing more than a really blue light.

3rd you have lumens: Lumens are the measured intensity of the lamp. Metal halide and VHO have high intensity, verses normal output florescen have low intensity. A double strip light that you get from your lfs will not cut it for most coral growth.


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## Ice (Sep 25, 2006)

Ow, my head ! I'm still trying to grasp the types of lighting but sort of understand it now. As far as protein skimmer goes and your comment CollegeReefer, I appreciate it. I will definitely look into what you recommend. Thank you.


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