# Newbie tank



## Essian (Feb 3, 2010)

hey guys, so I am a newbie when it comes to aquariums, and I could use some advice. I already have my whole thing set up, I have a 1.5 gallon tank, two male guppies and one male ADF (african dwarf frog). I have gravel on the bottom, a fake plant standing in the center, a filter running, a heater, and I have taken measures to regulate the pH, dechloronate the water, and remove any bacteria. It's all working well, but I have some concerns about the ADF in the tank. I think I should buy a small rock with an alcove/cave like opening for him to hide in, so he feels as though he has shelter. Do you think that would be a good idea? Also, I think that I should get him his own food, because I got a multi-type food dispenser with baby shrimp, crisps, and granules, but from what I have read, since they are intended for fish, can be harmful and not nutritious enough for Zeus (my ADF). Obviously I don't want anything bad to happen, so I was thinking I would some frozen bloodworms or frog/tadpole pellets to feed him with. This will eliminate competition for food, and make sure he gets proper nutrition. Any other advice you guys would give me? Also, if I put my hands in the tank to put in the new rock and move the plant to make room, as long as I move slowly and carefully, will it be to much stress for the little guys? Thanks for the help and advice guys, I really appreciate it!


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## br00tal_dude (Dec 26, 2009)

i would recommend frozen blood worms but i haven't kept frogs very much, i just know that once thawed the worms sinkand they will be easiest for him to eat, and i would think about something for him to hide in/ under, but like i said i don't have aton of experience with frogs.


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## Essian (Feb 3, 2010)

food has become less of an issue, I've seen him eating and I got some blood worms. But now I have a new issue: ammonia levels. So, in the first twenty four hours, the ammonia level spiked by .25ppm, which I sort of expected, if only because of adding fish the aquarium. I didn't know you should add fish progressively, add one, let a week pass, then add another, then another week... I added three at once. Yeah... I feel really horrible, so I am doing whatever I can to combat the problems that are arising, and keep the fish as safe as I can. As long as the ammonia level doesn't rise to 1ppm, I think I'll be okay, since the tank should stabilize as the filter keeps pumping away. Feeding is going to be sparse, once every other day, and only small bits of food to keep excretion levels low. Still, I will probably stop by the store tomorrow and get some ammonia balancing agent that will work temporarily until the filter gets working in full... do you guys think my fish will be okay as long as the ammonia stays at .25 to .50 but not higher? If not, I will have to figure something out.


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## bmlbytes (Aug 1, 2009)

You should be ok. One thing to note, is your tank is overstocked. You will have to do more water changes, or bigger ones to keep the water safe. Try not to overfeed.

Also, don't buy the ammonia balancers/nitrate removers/no water change chemicals. They will just make your tank never cycle. If you want something that will make your tank safe fast, and help it cycle, buy Seachem Stability instead. It will cycle your tank in a few days.


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## Essian (Feb 3, 2010)

Okay, I figured I was overstocked, but managably so, in a way that the fish could still live well, provided I can keep the tank clear and clean. Now, in terms of water changes, would a 50% water change once a week do the trick? Also, what is the most effective way of changing the water? I am looking for an efficient means of doing so, that won't stress out the fish, but will still get the job done. Right now, my only thought would be to take out the water one cup at a time, and then readd new water one at a time... so what is the best course of action?


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## bmlbytes (Aug 1, 2009)

50% should be good, but test the water once in a while to make sure nitrates are not getting too high. Use a siphon to change the water.


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## Essian (Feb 3, 2010)

two questions about changing the water in the tank:

1) What do you mean by "siphon"? I know I've heard the term before, but not sure what it means, and I assume it's a device I'll have to purchase... which is annoying considering I'm beyond broke, but let's see what we're working with and go from there.

2) When changing the water, should I just add straight tap water to the tank and then add bacteria and de-chloronization elements once it's been integrated, or should I put it in a separate container, mix in the chemicals to make it fish-friendly, and then add it once it has been sitting and mixing for a certain period?


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## OCtrackiepacsg1 (Oct 18, 2009)

You'll need to buy a syphon. No worries their like 5 bucks for a mini which is what I use for my 2.5 
Add decholrinator before placing water into tank. It should be easier with a small tank since you don't need a huge bucket.


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## Essian (Feb 3, 2010)

should I let the new water sit in the bucket for a while after adding the dechloronater, or should I just add it and send it straight into the tank?


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## bmlbytes (Aug 1, 2009)

A siphon can be made out of any sort of flexible tube really. Most people buy one with a gravel vac on the end though. You just stick the siphon in the water, suck the water through the tube (yes with your mouth) and put the end of the tube lower than the tank into a bucket. The water will use gravity and pressure to pull the water out of the tank. 

As for decholorinator, just throw it in the bucket, give it a quick stir, and put it in the tank. Just make sure the water feels to be the same temp.


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## Essian (Feb 3, 2010)

well actually, another (arguably more sanitary) way of doing it is to submurge the tube completely in water, so that the entire tube gets filled. Then, plug the tube on either end with your fingers and remove one end of the tube from the water, leaving the other submerged. When you remove your fingers from both ends, the water pressure will force the water out the other end of the tube, creating the same equilibrium of water flow achieved by using your mouth. 

I measured the ammonia level after about 5 and a half hours passed, having added no food, and no ammonia stabilizers of any kind. From what I saw, it seemed as though the ammonia level actually DECREASED (the liquid was a much lighter shade of yellow than my previous test) showing that the water was probably closer to zero than five hours previously... taking that as encouragement, I assume that as I plan to hold off on feeding them until friday, the ammonia level should continue to decrease. I will continue to do readings over the next day to be sure, but I have high hopes at this point.


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## bmlbytes (Aug 1, 2009)

If your ammonia went down then your nitrite or nitrate went up.


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## Essian (Feb 3, 2010)

oh crap isn't that also a really bad thing?! I don't have a test kit for those... shoot!! Should I be worried here?!


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## bmlbytes (Aug 1, 2009)

Nitrate should go up and is relatively harmless in small amounts. Nitrite might go up if the tank is not fully cycled. Nitrite is almost as harmful as ammonia is.


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## Essian (Feb 3, 2010)

bmlbytes said:


> Nitrate should go up and is relatively harmless in small amounts. Nitrite might go up if the tank is not fully cycled. Nitrite is almost as harmful as ammonia is.


well, the process goes ammonia>nitrite>nitrate right? They survived the ammonia phase, and now comes nitrite. I was planning on changing around 25% of the water tomorrow, even though they've only been integrated for a few days. I figure this might help get rid of some of the ammonia in the tank. I don't want to do a full 50% water change yet, just because the tank is still adjusting to a constant nitrification (or however the hell you say it) cycle. Does this sound like a good plan, or should I wait a few more days to allow the nitrite to change to nitrate?


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## bmlbytes (Aug 1, 2009)

To be honest, I don't advocate fish-present cycling. I usually seed my aquariums or use Seachem Stability.

If you are going to use fish-present cycling I would do good water changes more often than a usual water change. This will reduce the amount of ammonia your fish are subject to. It will probably stress them out, but that stress shouldn't cause any long term effects like the ammonia can.


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## Essian (Feb 3, 2010)

bmlbytes said:


> To be honest, I don't advocate fish-present cycling. I usually seed my aquariums or use Seachem Stability.
> 
> If you are going to use fish-present cycling I would do good water changes more often than a usual water change. This will reduce the amount of ammonia your fish are subject to. It will probably stress them out, but that stress shouldn't cause any long term effects like the ammonia can.


Seachem Stability replaces the need for water changes?! Also what do you mean by seeding? If you could define the difference between a "good water change" and a "usual water change" that would also be helpful... I'm very new at this, so I'm not familiar with most of the terminology


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## bmlbytes (Aug 1, 2009)

Stability will cycle your tank so that instead of ever seeing ammonia or nitrite you will only see nitrate. You still need to do water changes.

The thing I was trying to point out is you need to do the water change more frequently than normal. There was no specific distinction between good or usual water changes.


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## Essian (Feb 3, 2010)

bmlbytes said:


> Stability will cycle your tank so that instead of ever seeing ammonia or nitrite you will only see nitrate. You still need to do water changes.
> 
> The thing I was trying to point out is you need to do the water change more frequently than normal. There was no specific distinction between good or usual water changes.


gotcha, I'll try and find some Seachem Stability at the local petco... 

also, my tank is getting a little cloudy. I can still see all the way through it (which probably isn't saying much considering it's size) but wondering if this is, once again, cause for alarm. I have heard varying accounts of what it means, from it's an indication of high ammonia levels to it's the bacteria reacting to the ammonia, so it's actually a good thing. Any idea?


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## bmlbytes (Aug 1, 2009)

What color is the cloudiness?


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## Essian (Feb 3, 2010)

bmlbytes said:


> What color is the cloudiness?


uh... like a murky greenish I guess? It's not overly thick, I can still see all the way through, and can make out everything, but again, I have a small tank. The ammonia levels are low, and I know that murkiness can be indicative of high ammonia levels, but I'm hoping it's the bacteria colonies taking effect and establishing


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